Punta Marguareis is the highest point of Ligurian Alps ( Cadibona’s pass – Tenda’s pass ) and this mountain is considered by alpinists the queen of Ligurian Alps.
Its summit reach 2651 meters..
It’s placed between Pesio valley – Italy - ( north side ),the upper Tanaro valley – Italy - ( south-east side ) and Roya valley – France - ( south-west side ).
•The north face is formed by a great barrier which break off the Pesio’s valley with a long “Dolomitic” face and vertical spurs. This face is easy recognizable, but at the first time, if observed from the first part of valley, is a long horizontal ridge, not prominent. If we come near the mountain, we can notice its very nature: a maze of spires and snowly grooves for a long period during the year.
•The south face is an anonimous grassy dome, not much notable. This face not much sloping, is purely Karst ( Carsico in Italian ), with many hollows.
MARGUAREIS NORTH FACE
Getting ThereThe south side of mountain: if our provenience are the coast of Ligurian Sea, exit at Imperia Est ( Oneglia ) toolgate ( Autoroute A10 Genova – Ventimiglia ) and follow the road sign to Pontedassio, Chiusavecchia, Cesio, Pieve di Teco, Col di Nava ( 947 mt ), Nava, Ponte di Nava, Pornassimo, Viozene, Carnino.
The noth side of mountain : if our provenience are the Padanian plane, exit at Mondovì toolgate ( Autoroute A6 Torino – Savona ) and follow the road sign to Mondovì, Villanova Mondovì, Roccaforte Mondovì, Chiusa di Pesio, Vigna, S.Bartolomeo, Certosa di Pesio ( 659 mt ).
Itinerary• From Piano of Gorre ( 1032 mt ) follow the itinerary toward Piero Garelli refuge ( 1965 mt, 2 hours and 30 minutes, suggestion : to stay overnight).
The main interesting point during the route are : a construction of Gias Sottano Sestrera ( 1331 mt ). Here, follow toward east, the route pass near Giaset ( 1546 mt ) and the Gias Soprano Sestrera ( 1842 mt ); one last effort for this day and we reach the refuge Garelli.
The day after, the route trespass a secondary ridge of massif, with a brief upward slope and so on a long downward slope, near a little lake of Marguareis ( 1928 mt ).
Another crossroad, turn left ( always east ) as far as Col of Torinesi ( 2448 mt, 2 hours ).
Here turn toward right ( west ) and follow a slope with red signals; this path is formed by short grass and pebbles as far as a big grassy shoulder ( 2500 mt ).
Now the path procedeed toward north-north-west, near an isolated rocky spur ( frequently strong wind); we’re in the final oriental ridge ( 2610 mt ). Suggestion: this final path run along the left. The summit is near; a final effort and we’re at the top of Marguareis ( 2651 mt , 40 minutes ) where’s a big metallic crux.
•From Carnino Superiore we start to follow the path toward Colle dei Signori and at Refuge Don Barbera; after 45 minutes, we go at right a steep slope ( Pass delle Mastrelle ) as far as a big and particular rock. We continue toward col del Pas near bivouac Saracco Volante.
We leave the path for the Pas and we climb toward left a little lane ( red paint sign ) through a big groove and some rocky spurs. We arrive at Palù’s pass 2485 mt ( or Capra’s pass, in english Goat’s pass ) between Cima Bozano ( 2564 mt ) and Cima Palù.
From here we can enjoy an amazing view of Punta Marguareis. A brief steep descent ( some difficult passages – EE – Attention ) and we’re at the upper part of groove of Torinesi.
We climb toward left and after directly to the summit.
This itinerary with a slow-normal pace can be solved in 3 hours and 30 minutes. The descent in 2 hours and 45 minutes. Total time ( 6 hours and 15 minutes ).
Recommend map : IGC 1:25.000, sheet 114
EquipementHelmet, ice axe, crampons, rope.
Natural ParkPunta Marguareis is placed inside the Natural Park of upper Pesio and Tanaro’s valley
CHIUSA DI PESIO
ContributionsI thank CEDAD and your friend Michele Montanari to insert this beautiful pictures!!
If you have any type of informations please send me an e mail, photos etc.
Useful NumbersParco Naturale Alta Valle Pesio e Tanaro
Rifugio Garelli: (0171)738078
APT Tourist Information, Cuneo: (0171)66615
APT Tourist Information, Limone Piemonte: (0171)92101