Pure Pleasure

Overview

Window Rock has a nice selection of very moderate difficulty climbs on it's East side: From right to left, Juniper Jam, at 5.6; Drunken Cowboy (or Drunken Climber), at 5.7, and the twins of Pure Pleasure and Good times, both at 5.6.

Getting There

Reach the East face of Window Rock from the Parking Lot Rock parking area, and follow a signed trail around the North end of Parking Lot Rock. On the East side of Window Rock, towards it's North end, there are several vertical cracks, and only one of which reach the ground. The most northerly of these has a Juniper tree growing from it, and hence is Juniper Jam. About 50 feet to the left , beneath two very prominent cracks, a bolt may be seen about 15 feet off the deck below and between these cracks. The right crack is Pure Pleasure. The left crack is Good Times.

Route Description

Starting between the two previously described cracks, climb a short slab up to a slightly overhanging lip. Surmount the lip and climb to the bolt, being sure to use a longer runner to reduce rope drag. head towards the right crack on good holds, passing several horizintal slits which can accept some very small cams for protection. Once the crack itself is reached, protection is no longer a problem. Size # 1 and # 2 Camalots work fine, and the climbing is primarily on huecos right of the crack itself. An occasional hand jam in the crack facilitates upward progress. Belay from a nice ledge using protection obtained using cams in a horizontal crack.

Essential Gear

Cams from # 00 Metolius tricams to # 2 Camalots. Runners and quickdraws.

External Links

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