Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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36.34079°N / 72.02791°E |
GPX File:
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Download GPX » View Route on Map |
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County:
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Hindukush Pakistan |
Activities:
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Mountaineering, Sport Climbing, Ice Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
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Elevation:
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19977 ft / 6089 m |
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Overview
Raghshur 6089m is an independent peak of Hindukush- Chitral, Pakistan. It stands just a few Kilometres away from Shagrom, the uppermost village of Terich valley-Chitral. Its east face is steep and rocky and the western side is suitable for climbing. It is accessible via Udren Gol.
It has many positive sides such as:
• It is one of the most beautiful peaks of the Hindukush range and ideal for smaller Expeditions.
• It is only 2 days trek from jeep road.
• It is still unclimbed.
The first known attempt on Raghshur 6089m was in August 1974 by a 10 members Italian Expedition, which was led by Edoardo Genero and was supported by Club Alpino Italiano, Section Pinerola. Other members of the expedition were Giorgio Griva, Michele Ghirardi, Paolo Strani, Paolo Ghersi, Piero Dassano, Ercole Cassale, Luigi Vignetta, Eraldo Quero and Giuseppe Morero.
On August 9 they reached at BC at 3140m. The next day the expedition fixed Camp I at 4451m. In two days they fixed 650 feet of rope and reached a col, where Camp II was pitched at 5403m.
On August 15 Griva and Vignetta set out to ascend the west ridge as a final attempt. At 5602m they found a vertical step of friable limestone, and then they turned back. The next day Ghirardi and Morero attempted the last ridge and the first rock tower but they gave up the climb because it required many more days than they had.
On August 17 Dassano, Quero and Moreno climbed another peak 5420m, near the col. They evacuated Base Camp on 19th August.
After 35 years, in August 2009, a three member Greek expedition led by Dr. Nikolas Kroupis came to scale the peak, hoping to discover a new route to the summit. The other members were Theodoros Christopoulos and Ioannis Kovanidis. The expedition was sponsored by Hellenic Mountaineering Federation.
On August 6, the team started their ascent from Advanced Base Camp at 4775m. Ice and soft snow upto 60 degrees led them to a col at 5530m, where they installed Camp I. Afterward they traversed from the north side, on the bottom of the tower for 60 meters … where they identified a possible route to continue. They descended to camp and returned the next day for a new attempt. Unstable snow and an impassable cornice turned them back.
The team confirmed that the most feasible route lies to the north after traversing 150m or so from the high point where they had reached, (over the west ridge).
Getting There
Daily flight operations are operated from Islamabad and Peshawar. By road accessible via National Highway crossing 8.2km Lawari Tunnel about 9 hours drive from Peshawar.
From Chitral onwards to Shagrom which is the hub to Hindukush Peaks jeep can access. Its about 5 Hour
Red Tape
Add Red Tape text here.
When to Climb
Best time to Climb Raghshur is June-September.
Itinerary
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Days
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Activities
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Overnight
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1
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Arrive in Islamabad airport. Afternoon Islamabad city Tour.
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Hotel
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2
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Welcome reception (Briefing) at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
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Hotel
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3
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Drive to Chitral. 12-13 Hours drive.
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Hotel
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4
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Departure for Shagrom 2900m, (the last village of Terich Valley) along the river of Mastuj and Torkhow. 5-6 hours drive.
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Guest House
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5
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Trek to Shongulasht (Jungle) 3140m. BC of Italian Expedition 1974. 5-6 hours trek.
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Camping
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6
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Trek to Advance Base Camp 4450m. 5-6 hours trek.
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Camping
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7-30
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Rest, acclimatize and climbing activities.
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Camping
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31
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Return trek to Shagrom, by the same route.
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Home Stay
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32
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Drive back to Chitral. 5-6 hours.
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Hotel
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33
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Drive to Islamabad. 12-13 Hours Drive.
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Hotel
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34
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Farewell Meeting (De-Briefing)
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Hotel
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35
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Transfer to Islamabad airport for onward flight.
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http://www.nikolas.kroupi.gr/pk09/index.html