Rearguard Mountain is in Mount Robson Provincial Park. It is the most prominent mountain directly across from Hargreaves Cabin. With a specturial North Face overlooking the Berg and Rearguard campgrounds. Rearguard's summit offers great views of Berg Lake and the North Face of Mount Robson. It is often a consolidation prize when climbers are turned away from Resplendent or Robson.
Mount Robson Provincial Park is location on Hwy 16 between Edmonton and Kamloops. For international travellers, the closest major airport is in Edmonton, Alberta and the drive is approximately four hours.
Rearguard Mountain is most commonly climbed from the North. First, follow the Berg Lake Trail to the Berg Lake campground. Then cross the flats and Robson River to the forest on the North slope of Rearguard. Go west through some horrible bushwhacking towards the moraine of the Berg Glacier. Follow the left side of the moraine up through a scramble (4th class BC bush-climbing) towards the col between Waffl and Rearguard. The travel eases considerably above the tree line. It is an easy climb to the top from there.
Robson Glacier Route
There is a much easier (i.e. no bushwhacking) but longer route (11km longer) that follows the Robson Glacier. Follow the Berg Lake Trail towards Snowbird Pass. Drop down on to the Robson Glacier before the trail starts to head up towards the pass. Cross the Robson Glacier to Extinguisher tower. You will have to drop off the glacier before Extinguisher Tower, to go around some seracs, and regain the glacier again above them. From here there is a large flat section of the glacier that can be crossed between Extinguisher and Rearguard. Once on the solid ground of the Waffl-Rearguard Col the final route to the summit is obvious. When the glacier is dry in August this is a much better route than the Standard.
It costs $10.00/night/person to camp on the Berg Lake Trail during the summer and is free in the winter.
When to Climb
Rearguard Mountain is most commonly climbed in July - August. Although, it is possible to tour to the top in the winter, great runs.
There is lots of camping on the Berg Lake Trail ($10/night/person) and there is a beautiful bivouac site between Waffl and Rearguard. I would recommend the Rearguard campground directly across from the mountain.
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