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Reggie Dome, 5.5-5.10d
Mountain/Rock

Reggie Dome, 5.5-5.10d

 
Reggie Dome, 5.5-5.10d

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 34.04003°N / 116.17772°W

Object Title: Reggie Dome, 5.5-5.10d

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Apr 10, 2016 / Apr 10, 2016

Object ID: 969449

Hits: 225 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview/Approach

 
Fresh Squeezed, 5.10a
Fresh Squeezed, 5.10a

IMAGE ABOVE IS POP GOES HAWAIIAN AND THE CHIEF
Reggie Dome is part of a loose collection of features named Parking Lot Rocks. This area is easily accessed (10 minutes) from the backcountry trail-head for Boy Scout and Willow Hole trails. Reggie Dome is by far the most significant of these features offering up 16 easy to moderate routes (2016).
 
Short Cut, 5.10a
Short Cut, 5.10a

There are two routes here that no doubt attract beginning trad leaders, Pops Goes Hawaiian (5.7) and the Chief (5.5). They are both given a couple of stars in Miramontes guide. My favorites on Reggie Dome include Sunny Delight (5.9), Fresh Squeezed (5.10a) and Ninny’s Revenge (5.9).  Ninny’s receives no stars in Miramontes guide, yet he gives a typical easy slab route just to the left, Fender Bender (5.8) a star. In reality, if you combine the two from Ninny’s to the upper portion of Fender Bender, the hybrid makes for the best route on this west facing section of the wall. You have north facing, west facing and south facing routes on Reggie Dome.

Park at the large backcountry trail head area for Boy Scout and Willow Hole trails. Access a wide sandy trail straight east of the parking lot heading for the closest features to the east. Reggie Dome is on the left and B52 Rock on the right.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed from the North-West- South Faces, Left to Right

  • The Mole- 5.10d*

  • Thomson Roof aka More Cheep- 5.9

  • Reggie’s Pimple- 5.10c

  • Reggie on a Poodle- 5.10a*

  • Dichotomy- 5.10b

  • Speed Bump- 5.9

  • Fender Bender- 5.8*
  • I combined Ninny’s Revenge with the best Fender Bender has to offer which is its upper bolted face section. Fender Bender's lower slab is not that interesting or challenging at the grade. Dow

  • Thomson’s Acne- 5.10b

  • Ninny’s Revenge- 5.9
  • Miramontes guide gives this route no stars, yet gives Fender Bender one. In reality, the best way to climb the best that Fender Bender has to offer (face moves through two bolts on the upper face) is to do Ninny’s Revenge which dumps into Fender Bender. This makes for a very good 5.9 route, particularly for Reggie Dome. I placed one C4#4 up the wide diagonal crack that starts with a cool juggy mantel. I ran it out from there to a slopping ledge that ties into Fender Bender, but an additional C4#3 would protect this initial crack portion adequately. From there, walk left and locate the two upper bolts on Fender Bender and face climb up through this 5.8 section to easy climbing which leads to a fixed rap up and left below the summit. Dow

  • Pops Goes Hawaiian- 5.7 **
  • The most attractive route for its respective grade at Reggie Dome. The run out start to the lone bolt on the route is probably the crux for most. Make a few big (but positive) moves up the initial steep section of the dike. Mantle via an off-balance move to the left side of the tall flake which reaches the dike. Traverse right via a huge jug atop of the flake to the dike. Follow the cool, low angled dike to a gear belay on top. There are two horizontals for pro gear on the main dike, C4#.75 and .5. Dow

  • Pop Goes the Weasel- 5.10d*

  • The Chief- 5.5**
  • Fun secure solo or first trad lead. Scramble to the base of a hand crack to the right of the dike. Jam up the solid rock placing gear at will. Same gear belay as Pop. The exit for these routes is to down climb a few meters north to a ledge that contains the fixed rap for Fender Bender. Dow

  • Short Cut- 5.10a*
  • This route is located on a separate block between the south facing and west facing routes on Reggie Dome. Despite being a bolted route, this is one of the tougher 5.10a’s I have done at Jtree. It involves a sequence of more bouldering moves than a typical 5.10a climb and is quite height dependent. Via a left foot, dyno for a jug below your first clip. An awkward mantle leads to an awkward transition into a left hand traverse and another tough clip. From there the third clip was a breeze in comparison. Straight up from the third clip via another (face) move at the grade, then traverse up and right to a fixed top rope (but not rap) anchor. To exit the summit, scramble down to climbers left. Dow

  • Tender Flakes of Wrath- 5.9

  • Sunny Delight- 5.9*
  • As the name implies, the routes at this end of Reggie Dome face south and get sun all day. Sunny is my favorite climb on Reggie Dome. Traverse in from the right from the start to Fresh Squeezed. Clipping the first of two bolts (button heads as of 2015) is a cruxy and balancey move that a fresh 5.9 leader would not appreciate.  However it is a cool route offering cool moves. Face climb to the next bolt at the grade, then 5th class up low angled terrain to the roof (crack) above. An offset .4-.5 worked well in protecting the exposed and athletic mantel to the upper face/crack. Another bold move leads to easier climbing and a fixed rap on top. Dow

  • Fresh Squeezed- 5.10a**
  • This bolted route (modern bolts as of 2015) is not as challenging as Sunny. The crux is the roof pull (as it is for Sunny) but you are clipped to a bolt before experiencing any exposure. It is positive climbing, although steep, for the grade at Jtree. Fixed rap on top, but those are button head spinners (2015). Dow

    Images

    Pops Goes Hawaiian, 5.7Fresh Squeezed, 5.10aFender Bender, 5.8Ninny\'s Revenge, 5.9Pops Goes Hawaiian, 5.7Short Cut, 5.10a