Report of Mountaineering Expedition visited Pakistan during 2008

87 applications were received for grant of Permission to climb various peaks in Pakistan including 01 expedition attempting Broad Peak in winter season. Out of which 76 applicants were granted permission to climb respective Peaks of their choice including 09 applicants who were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each, 03 expedition permitted to climbe 03-peaks each and one expedition was permitted to climb 4-peaks whereas 02 expeditions could not be granted permission to climb peaks situated close to war zone Siachen Glacier, and 06 expeditions withdrew their applications. As such overall 92 attempts were made by 634 members of 76 expeditions, to climb 24 peaks, out of which 131 climbers including 03 from Pakistan, were successful in hoisting their national Flags on the summit of 12 peaks.

K2 (8611-M) Chogori

This year was unluckily year for K2 climbers. K2 lived up to its name and proved its nature of being a savage mountain by claiming 11 lives in one day i.e. on 1st of August 2008.
This year 74 climbers of 10 expeditions tried to summit the savage mountain K-2, out of which 17 climbers of 06 expeditions were successful in hoisting their National Flags on top of K2 including one Pakistani Mountaineer Meharban Karim who unluckily had a fatal fall while descending from the summit. But unluckily 24 climber while crossing bottleneck were caught in an avalanche on 1st August 2008 some of them were swept away to destiny some sliped down after climbing the peak to be buried under tons of snow for ever around the summit of the Savage mountain K2. It lived upto its nickname of Savage Mountain and claimed 11 lives including 02 Pakistani Climbers.

Nanga Parbat 8125-M

10 Expeditions visited Pakistan this year to surmount the invincible Nanga Parbat but only 03 expeditions were successful in putting 17 out of 55 climbers on top of this invincible mountain including 2 Pakistani climbers that is Nisar Hussain and Muhammad Ali. It may be mentioned here that Mr. Nisar Hussain has completed the tally of all five Mountains above 8000 meters situated in Pakistan.
This year a Winter Expedition led by Jacek Teler tried to summit Nanga Parbat but they didn’t summit the peak due to bad weather and heavy snow and logistic difficulties.In this season unluckily 02 mountaineers laid their lives while attempting this peak.

Gasherbrum I 8068-M

It was not a very successful climbing year for G-I. 95 members of 12 Expeditions tried to surmount impregnable G-I out of which only 14 climbers of 04 Expeditions succeeded in putting their National Flags on the summit of G-I, remaining 08 expeditions have returned un-successful. Unluckily there was one casualty on this peak Mr. Jean Noel a prominent Skier and climber died while climbing G-I on 16th June 2008.

Broad Peak 8047-M

Overall 12 Expeditions tried their luck on Broad Peak, out of which 07 Expeditions have been successful in putting 29 members on the summit of Broad Peak and 05 Expeditions have returned un-successful. In addition one Polish winter expedition Led by Mr. Arthur trying its luck to climb Broad peak .
Unluckily Mr. Valdimir Plulik of Slovakia had a fatal fall while attempting Broad Peak on 26th June 2008.

Gasherbrum II 8035-M

This year 150 members of 17 Expeditions were granted permission to climb G-II, out of which 11 expedition were successful. The mountain’s summit stats added up 38 new names in 2008.
Note: climbers reported that only a fraction of those reporting success July 6th actually made the true top. A similar situation unfolded later on Manaslu, both occasions mainly involving several large commercial teams. Out of around 20 summits originally reported around July 6th on GII, only 6 ended up confirmed

Spantik 7027M

Unlike last year the current year was an unlucky year for climbers on Spantik. Only one Italian Expedition led by Mr. Roberto returned successful by putting both of its members on the summit. All other 12 expeditions have returned unsuccessful due to bad weather.

K7 6934-M

This year K7 had been attempted by 02 Expeditions and both returned successful by putting 5 members on the summit.

Bekka Brakai Chhok 6940-M

A New Zealand Expedition led by Ms. Patricia Deavall tried to summit this peak on 12th July 2008 with Ms.Patricia Deavoll of Newzealand and Mr. Malcolm Bass of Britain but they didn’t summit the peak.
Italian Simone Moro claimed to have achieved the first complete ascent on Bekka Brakai Chhok in the first week of August, teaming up with Hervé Barmasse. In his season’s end chronicle, Brazilian statistician Rodrigo Granzotto confirmed the achievement, mentioning Pat Deavall’s climb as “attempt.” Patricia Deavall and Malcom Bass in addition reported to media themselves that they gave up when the ridge proved increasingly difficult as snow conditions worsened

K6 7282-M (Baltistan Peak), Kapura 6544-M , Batura II 7762-M

One expedition each was launched on each of the above 03 peaks and all have returned Successful by putting 02 members each on the respective Summits of the Peaks.

Muztagh Tower 7273-M

Unluckily Mr. Pavle Kozjek of Slovenia leader of the Slovenian Expedition on Muztagh Tower died while climbing on 25th August 2008.

Expeditions to all Other Peaks

Expeditions to other 12 peaks i.e. Gasherburm-III & IV, Latok-I & III, Raka Poshi, Skyang Kangri, Dastagil Sar, Diran, Muztagh Tower, Chogo Lisa, Tahu Rutum and Bantha Brakk failed to climb any peak. The Spanish team led by Alberto Iñurrategi on GIV reached the peak's northern (not main) summit, according to later reports.
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Total Number of Summiteers

In all 132 mountaineers of 39 Expeditions have been successful in reaching the summit of above-mentioned 12 mountains.

Fatalities

Pakistan mountains have kept 16 climbers in 2008. Eleven died on K2, one on Broad Peak, two on Nanga Parbat and one on Gasherbrum I.one climber was died on Muztagh Tower.

NAMING LIST OF MOUTAINEERS DIED ON K2

1. Mr. Kim Hyo - Gyeong Korean
2. Mr. Park Kyeong - Hyo Koream
3. Mr. Hwang Dong - Jin Korean
4. Mr. Jumik Bhote Napali
5. Mr. Pasang Bhote Napali
6. Mr. Jehan Baig Pakistan HAP
7. Mr. Meherban Karim Pakistan HAP
8. Mr. Daubarede Hugues Jean - Louis Marie French
9. Mr. Gerard McDonnell Irish
10. Mr. Dren Mandic Serbian
11 Mr. Rolf Bae Norwegian
Injured Persons
Mr. Wilco van Rooijen Dutch
Mr. Cas Van De Gevel Dutch
Mr. Marco Confortola Italian

Images

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