-
3360 Hits
-
71.06% Score
-
1 Votes
Page Type:
|
Route |
|---|---|
Route Type:
|
Trad Climbing |
|
Time Required:
|
Half a day |
|
Difficulty:
|
F1***** |
|
Number of Pitches:
|
3 |
|
Overview
This route climbs the ‘horn’ of the Rhino and is on good rock in a sunny and exposed position. The climbing is mostly ‘friendly’ and non-committing and there is a walk-off option above pitch 1.Getting There
ApproachFrom the Pillar Cave Annex; walk out the upstream entrance to the cave and after some 30m cut up right up the steep grass slope on a vague path. The objective then is to gain the crest of the ridge under which the annex is found and which runs up to the long eastern ridge coming down from the Rhino’s horn. Follow the ridge and then eventually
scramble up a steep grassy gully to a notch in the main ridge, which runs down from the “horn”- 1hr. Turn left and take the easiest line up the ridge in the direction of the bottom of the horn. Where the base of the horn is located, scramble up to crest of the ridge and then move 4m left of the crest on steep ground. 2.15hrs from Pillar Cave annex. The first pitch starts in a small bay with a recess above. The stance is fairly exposed at this point.
Route Description
1. 35m (F1). Pull up strenuously into a scrappy recess. Move up this until it narrows. Chimney up 2m and then pull up left onto a sloping platform. Move up a slab with an overhang above. Before reaching the overhang, step right then climb easily up to an exposed rocky shoulder to belay. Walk up the ridge for about 70m to where it steepens again. (On this section it is possible to opt out of the roped climbing and walk easily to the left with one slightly exposed area, then to keep walking along and up to gain the main ridge and the hiking route to gain the summit).2. 15m (D). At the foot of the buttress climb easily up on the left to the top of the steep section. Then walk up the ridge to below a slab of smooth rock with a short vertical wall above.
3. 30m (E3). Scramble up to the easy smooth slab to the vertical wall. On undercut holds move right 2m then go
straight up. There is a piton just over the lip. Then climb easy ground to below some large overhangs to belay. The summit is short scramble above.