OverviewRight Twin is an enjoyable traditional mixed ice climb with steep sections at the bottom and mid-height but with minimal difficulty overall. The main technical difficulty is at the start of the climb and there are bomber rock belays for the entirity of the climb.
The gully is on Aonach Mor's east face, Coire an Lochain, which due to its sheltered easterly orientation, can often be a serious location for avalanches in the wrong conditins.
The easiest approach starts from the ski area which is 7 miles (10km) north of Fort William, off the A82 to Inverness. Catch the Gondola from the car park up the mountain to 650m then take a chair lift to within 315m of the summit. 'Climbers Gondolas' run at 8am with a regular service starting at 9.30. From the top of Aonach Mor either walk down easy gully or abseil off a slow bollard part of the way if there is significant cornice.
The route is 120m so can easily be done in three pitches. It is located right of Siamese Buttress.
1. Climb the steep section of ice at the base of the gully. This is the crux of the climb but provides minimal exposure. Set a belay up at the start of the section banked by vertical side walls.
2. Climb the 1.5m wide snow gully to a second steep section of ice. While not as steep as the first section there is more rock exposed making the climb marginally more mixed.
3. The final pitch is straight forword however if hole will need to be broken through the cornice in order to top out.
Essential Gear2 x technical axes
Quickdraws (about 6)
2 x Ice screws essential (better 4)
I didn't use any Rockcentrics on this route
External LinksWest Coast Mountain Guides Avalanche information, climbing conditions and weather forecasts.
Abacus Mountaineering Climbing conditions
The Scottish avalanche information service (SAIS)
Mountain weather information servise (MWIS) weather forecast
Metcheck 7 day weather forecast