Rosemary (5.7 PG) and Reprise de la Bastille (5.4)

Rosemary (5.7 PG)-- Start by the tree seen here, but head straight up, pull the roof without using the big flake to the right, and then head up the face before trending right to the Reprise finish. The PG part is above the roof because there is really no pro for about 15' (maybe a Tricam in a horizontal seam). I did this on TR after leading Reprise; the 5.7 face section was easy, but I was still glad I wasn't on lead for it. Reprise de la Bastille (5.4)-- Same start as Rosemary. Climb straight up to the huge flake (some placements along the way, including an iffy horizontal one) and then layback and jam the flake to easier ground. Fun route. After the flake, it is really a scramble to a ledge where there are two slingable trees (slim but sturdy, but build a gear anchor if you don't trust them). The flake has that dreaded hollow sound when you smack it, so I recommend not using cams in it; look to place medium or large hexes in passive mode instead. If you find the sweet keyhole placement that takes a large stopper or a medium hex, you're set (unless the rock fails!). This route is about 60' to the trees. From the trees, you can continue up Class 3/4 ground until you reach much easier ground below an often-mobbed outcrop near Sugarloaf's summit, making the route 80-100', or you can make an anchor and treat the next "pitch" as practice for new leaders or just for multi-pitch technique. Sugarloaf Mountain, Maryland-- February 2016