It is good to see such a heavily sought after route page handled by someone with your mountaineering knowledge and command of the language. This is a High Quality site.
I have made a goal to do this route in 2008, I do not feel ready just yet. I found your page very helpful, and I plan to review your page a few more time before our trip. Thank you.
has anyone been up the route recently? I was wondering what the snow conditions in the chute will be, especially at the top. we're heading up there june 4
Thank you for a detailed description of a much better alternative to the standard trail. One point worth noting is that above Upper Boy Scout Lake to the left of the trail there is a hidden small lake, Thor lake (about alt. 11,700 ft) which is well sheltered from the wind & cold. We camped there overnight, close to the east shore & left our gear before starting at 4:30 AM the next morning towards Iceberg lake and the East Face.
The main route goes up and left right after the notch with a one rather exposed 5th class move. I've always traverse the talus angling west going up and reversed this coming down. Less direct but easier. (?) [Less scary]
Am planning a return trip (didn't have time to summit the first trip) in late June and noticed the "Time Required: Half a day" part in the description. Uh, ok so I'm not an expert in alpine but I'm not a novice and I can't imagine any scenario where you could start in the parking lot, summit via Mountaineer's, and return to your car, in a half a day. Is that supposed to be like starting from Iceberg? Or from the parking lot to the BASE of the notch? Seems like some clarity here might be wise to prevent newbies from not being adequately prepared.
I am a little confused by the permit situation. If I wanted to do a multi-day trip there, would I still have to do the lottery thing? I would assume so, but maybe you can help me answer this question.
desainme - May 5, 2006 2:01 am - Voted 10/10
Good DescriptionWith good pix and diagram picture of the top
ridgeline - May 5, 2006 12:43 pm - Voted 10/10
QualityIt is good to see such a heavily sought after route page handled by someone with your mountaineering knowledge and command of the language. This is a High Quality site.
JasonH - May 31, 2006 5:35 am - Voted 10/10
Great Job!This page will come in handy someday.(soon I hope)
Steve Larson - Jun 5, 2006 8:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: excellentThanks for your kind words. I'm glad you found it helpful and accurate.
hundy - Mar 20, 2007 9:28 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: excellentI have made a goal to do this route in 2008, I do not feel ready just yet. I found your page very helpful, and I plan to review your page a few more time before our trip. Thank you.
Sierra Ledge Rat - Mar 12, 2007 5:47 am - Hasn't voted
GlissadingEarly in the season it is considered poor etiquitte to glissade down the Mountaineer's Couloir. Ruins the chute for skiers.
jpmossy - May 12, 2009 3:28 am - Hasn't voted
Any info on current conditions?has anyone been up the route recently? I was wondering what the snow conditions in the chute will be, especially at the top. we're heading up there june 4
JanG - Jul 1, 2009 2:38 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice ReportThank you for a detailed description of a much better alternative to the standard trail. One point worth noting is that above Upper Boy Scout Lake to the left of the trail there is a hidden small lake, Thor lake (about alt. 11,700 ft) which is well sheltered from the wind & cold. We camped there overnight, close to the east shore & left our gear before starting at 4:30 AM the next morning towards Iceberg lake and the East Face.
Cheers,
JanG
SpiderSavage - Jul 1, 2009 11:28 pm - Voted 8/10
Traverse After NotchThe main route goes up and left right after the notch with a one rather exposed 5th class move. I've always traverse the talus angling west going up and reversed this coming down. Less direct but easier. (?) [Less scary]
edhopkins - Feb 21, 2010 9:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Time Required?Am planning a return trip (didn't have time to summit the first trip) in late June and noticed the "Time Required: Half a day" part in the description. Uh, ok so I'm not an expert in alpine but I'm not a novice and I can't imagine any scenario where you could start in the parking lot, summit via Mountaineer's, and return to your car, in a half a day. Is that supposed to be like starting from Iceberg? Or from the parking lot to the BASE of the notch? Seems like some clarity here might be wise to prevent newbies from not being adequately prepared.
alpinedon - May 17, 2012 11:07 pm - Hasn't voted
PermitsI am a little confused by the permit situation. If I wanted to do a multi-day trip there, would I still have to do the lottery thing? I would assume so, but maybe you can help me answer this question.