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| South Corner   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Washington, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 47.56470°N / 123.3145°W Route Type: Alpine Rock with steep snow travel Time Required: A few days Difficulty: 5.0 (5.7 Option)
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| Page By: peakbagger4 Created/Edited: Sep 6, 2003 / Sep 10, 2003 Object ID: 158756 Hits: 1061  Loading... Page Score: 86.71% - 2 Votes  Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
There are various options for base camp such as Black & White Lakes, Mildred Lakes, etc. however, this description is from Staircase Rangers Station with base camp at Flapjack Lakes.
From Staircase rangers station hike 8 miles to Flapjack lakes with a 3,200-foot elevation gain in the last 4 miles.
From Flapjack Lakes, take the 1.4-mile trail toward Glady's Divide, turn right and ascend the 700-ft chute to a notch in the ridge crest. This is called needles pass. Traverse east on the left side of the chute for 50ft. Then turn to the north and ascend to the ridge crest. Follow on the West Side of the ridge northeasterly for 1/8 mile. Then cross to the East Side and descend a gully. You should see Mt. Cruiser as pictured when you descend the gully. At bottom of gully walk to base of climb.
Route Description
Climb up easy ledges to a small chimney with a cannon hole at it's top. Climb through the cannon hole or on the face to the left (5.0). Reaching a large flat belay/rappel area traverse right to a ledge. Ascend directly up the face of Mt. Cruiser to the ridge crest to a good belay spot with two good bolts (5.0). There is a 1/4 inch bolt about halfway up and slightly to the left of this 70-ft lead. There's also a very very rusty 1/4 inch bolt backed up by an even worse looking piton next to it some 10 - 15 feet below the belay station (look left near ridge crest). Leaving the belay station follow the ridge to the summit (single 1/4 inch bolt near summit). Final scramble to summit is very exposed may consider belaying leader to single bolt on/near summit and have leader tie off for a fixed line to and off the summit.Two ropes are needed for the rappel. Estimated time from Flapjacks Lake 3 1/2 hours.
Essential Gear
Camping Gear for 2 -3 Days
Food & Water 2-3 Days (Water available at Flapjack Lakes)
2 -50 Meter Ropes
Full set nuts
#3 Camalot
8 Slings
Webbing, Quick Links/Rap Rings (For Rappels)
Helmet
Ice Axe & Crampons
Harness
2 Locking Biners
Cordlette
Miscellaneous Info
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