Perren route to Neil Colgan Hut

Approach

View of the route from Moraine Lake.

To get to the Neil Colgan Hut. There are two recommended approaches The Perren Route and the Schiesser Ledges. For the Perren route bank on 5-6 hours to get to the Hut from Moraine Lake.

You will have to get yourself to Lake Louise. From Calgary take the Trans Canada (1) west through Canmore, Banff, then Drive to Lake Louise along the #1. After driving by the Samson Mall area continue along the road up towards the Chateau. Take the signed left turn towards Moraine Lake.

Park in the lot and follow the trail right along Moraine lake. You will pass the trail up to the Larch valley for those headed to Mount Temple and or Eiffel Peak. Continue all the way along till you get to the end of the lake. Here you will have to cross the inlet stream twice. There is a cable to hang onto and logs and stones to walk on. They can be slippery so be careful unless you want wet feet.

Once you cross these you follow the trail winding through some small trees till you reach the rock and rubble. At this point you bear left more for the Perren Route. Scramble your way through the talus following the cairns to the base of the quartzite ledges/wall. There are 4 pitches from this point. The first 5.4 of about 25-30 metres.

The next 5.4 of about the same. Then there is the famous 5.7 that has been eased with the placement of a chain. This is a welcome item as you can clip into it as you go up on lead. Or use it to climb on belay. It is still a grunt especially with full packs and plastic boots. Once above here follow the ledges to the right to one final pitch of 5.4. Once you top off you will be at the end of the glacier that slopes up right gently to the hut which is just out of sight over the hill.

Route Description

The day starts as a hike along the lake. Then becomes a scramble through the talus. Then a technical rock climb on quartzite. There are good belay points/stations for belaying and rappelling on the exit. It's a long day with full packs and plastic boots. 5-6 hours of work.

Essential Gear

Rope 55 metres
Harness
helmets
various locking biners
4-5 slings
Belay device
prussiks
Plastic boots for the glacier (wear)
Gaitors
Crampons
sleeping bag for the hut
Food
headlamp for the trail (incase)
Warm clothing to suit the conditions.

Miscellaneous Info

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