| Italian normal route Route |
Contribute  Loading...
Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| Italian normal route   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Graubünden (Bernina), Switzerland, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.37150°N / 9.88330°E Route Type: Ice-rock classic route Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: AD
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: andrea.it Created/Edited: May 10, 2005 / May 26, 2008 Object ID: 165004 Hits: 1317 Loading... Page Score: 86.45% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
ApproachThis unusual route permits to climb the Piz Roseg from the italian side.
It starts from the "Passo Sella" 3269m, that is also reachable from the Chamanna Coaz.
Th icey west flanks of the mountain are getting smaller caused by the global warming.This is why this route was more famous in the past and not existing for longer.
Bivouac Parravicini(3183 m.) is the starting point and it's situated on an isle of rock on the eastern part of upper Scerscen glacier, nearly the Sella pass.
The best way from Italy is from Marinelli-Bombardieri hut all across the Scerscen glacier(usually no crevasses warning).
Marinelli-Bombardieri hut is a point where many paths goes trough;
from Val Malenco,from Campo Moro lakes an even from Val Poschiavo(CH).
Ref.Marinelli-biv.Parravicini 2hours on easy walkup on glacier.
Route DescriptionFrom bivouac Parravicini: start very early to north direction,being carefully the crevasses, and than go trough the Sella pass (3269 m.).
Keep walking in the same direction and border the west flank of Piz.Roseg.
From that point should visible a small ice slope (in italian "Vedretta"), quite steepy, connects the swiss side of the main glacier (Vedret da la Sella) to the north-west ridge(swiss normal route). This is the worst part of the route, the surface of the slope is rarely in good condition.
Last september(2004), the first part of it (as you can see in the pic), wasn't existing anymore.
So it's better to approach it on the right side rocks (attention falling stones).
Climb it for all the length following the normal Swiss route ,continue along the very exposed ridge untill the second and main summit of 3937m.
Images
|
|
Alps - Eastern Part
