| S edge (Gervasutti route) Route |
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| S edge (Gervasutti route)   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Lombardia,ValBregaglia,Swiss, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.24730°N / 9.63160°E Route Type: Trad Climbing Time Required: Most of a day Rock Difficulty: 5.10b (YDS) Difficulty: TD sup Number of Pitches: 20 Grade: IV
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| Page By: gabriele Created/Edited: May 25, 2005 / Aug 22, 2008 Object ID: 165208 Hits: 1869 Loading... Page Score: 86.45% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewA fantastic and classic climb, the most frequently climbed in the area together with the Erba route on the SE wall of the same summit
and the Parravicini to the E tower of Cima di Zocca.
Difference in elevation is about 500m (18 - 20 pitches)
Once on the route there were few pegs (8-10) so it can be considered as an example of "classic" free climbing
ApproachFrom Rifugio Allievi follow toward north the wide channel on the left (west) of the Punta Allievi, keeping to the left the spur coming from a minor summit.
When you see on your right a big ledge you must cross to catch it following till the edge, over the lower bulwark.
Route DescriptionStart climbing slight on the right of the edge
Follow some slabs (a small overhang) to get the cracked dihedral on the right of a tooth rising from the edge. (4° and 5°).
Follow the dihedral, a small overhang can be climbed with a short cross (2m to the right - 2m up, 2m left)
On along the crack till the saddle after the tooth. 6°
Few difficult metres (6°+) then, with easier climb along the edge, till few meters under the big gendarme.
Cross under it (on the left side) to get the saddle in the mid of the route.
Here, on the left, a not difficult channel allows to get down.
From the saddle a short cross toward right allows to get the edge to be followed till a yellow wall.
Climb it (6°), along a short easy channel get and follow a series of small cracks (very exposed) till an overhang.
Don't climb it, cross to the right for about 10m on a grassy ledge, on along a crack, cross to the left to get a chimney that leads to the summit
Essential Gear2 ropes (better 50m)
10-12 carabiniers
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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