Fremont Glacier

Approach

Get yourself to Park Creek Pass either from Stehekin or the North Cascades Highway. From the pass, take the trail about 1/3 mile down the Thunder Creek side, to the first stream crossing. From here, head cross-country through heather and scrubby trees, on an upward traverse. Direction of travel should be NE towards the Fremont Glacier. You'll enter into an open talus-filled basin below the southern edges of the glacier. This is all fairly open country with little to prevent travel. Pretty typical cascades alpine slopes and rockslides. Climb up to 8,000' to the bottom edge of the Fremont Glacier near its southern edge. A good bivi spot with a rock wall exists where the logical climber route reaches the glacier.

Route Description

Snow Travel


Once on the glacier, proceed NE below a prominent rock tower that is part of the middle summit. The glacier itselff is fairly low angle and seldom has any crevasse issues. Head north and uphill along the glacier, avoiding any small openings. From the highest point on the glacier, use a small 'hogsback' feature to gain the rocky crest. note how the 'hogsback' features and glaciel topography leading to both summits is similar. Make sure you are climbing the peak intend to climb.

The RockThe harder (4th class) sections of the rock portion are the first and last bits. Getting from the snow to the ridge crest involves a potentially dicey step-across, then a leftward ramp. Follow ledges and ramps along the crest and on both sides of the ridgeline. Blocky third and fourth class leads to the summit. Time of travel would likely be about an hour on the glacier and 45 minutes on the rock.

Essential Gear

Crampons and an axe.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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