Traverse (SE/NE ridge)

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Mount Glasgow
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Traverse (SE/NE ridge)

Page Type:	Route
Lat/Lon:	50.75531°N / 114.93289°W
Route Type:	Scramble
Time Required:	One to two days
Difficulty:	Moderate
	Sign the Climber's Log!

Approach

If you are only interested in Mount Glasgow there is a more direct way to approach it. The route described here is a traverse from Mount Cornwall to Mount Glasgow.

From the Little Elbow Recreation Area parking lot, follow a trail that goes along the river in the upstream direction. In 200-300 meters, a large pedestrian bridge is reached, where you want to cross. Follow the biggest trail that curves sharply left and follows the river downstream, however soon heads off south, in the correct direction. There are many small trails here, just keep to the largest one, Big Elbow Trail on the maps.

Follow along this road for approximately 15km. After the first 10km or so, there are two wooden bridges that you want to make note of - after crossing the second bridge, in a kilometer or less from this point is your turn-off. The trail gains a steep incline and there is a small branch on your right (big cairn here in 2005). This branch will take you to the Banded/Outlaw col. From here follow you need to gain Banded Peak, Outlaw Peak and Mount Cornwall and descend to the col to Mount Glasgow.

Route Description

Once at the Cornwall/Glasgow col, you will see cliff bands on climber's left, and an easier-looking ridge on your right. Stomp up the rubbly ridge, until eventually it becomes difficult and you need to traverse right to avoid obstacles (big cliffs are on your left). These last 100-200m to the summit are the only bit presenting challenge, especially in low visibility. Scramble around looking for the easiest line, being careful of loose blocks and gravel-covered slabs. In thick fog, we traversed right for perhaps 100 meters and ascended one or two short 4/5th class sections but there are easier ways. If you get into a difficult spot, take your time and look for an easier line, as it is loose and mildly exposed.

Soon you reach easy ground and the summit is in view. Run up and enjoy the newly-found scenery! There was a summit register in 2005, guarded by a spiderman - while he likes the attention, be careful not to disturb him too much.

For descending, you have options. What I recommend is to follow the NE ridge all the way into the valley bottom, gaining an additional unnamed summit in the process.

From the summit, head back down in a NE direction, aiming for the ridge. Do not make the mistake of heading straight down, as that will have you negotiating difficult cliff bands and eventually send you in the wrong valley. This can be tricky in low visibility but once the ridge is found, it is easy ground that eventually leads you to a col between Glasgow and a small unnamed peak. From this point, you can directly drop down steep scree into the Glasgow Creek bed and follow it along (see below), or I recommend continuing to get another summit, only an additional 200-300m elevation gain. Follow straight up and over this Nub and descend down the opposite side, therefore avoiding some of the more difficult creek and/or bushwacking travel in the valley. Once you descend into the valley bottom, follow the stream bed and then curve left in a northern direction on animal trails, aiming for the Little Elbow River. After an hour of easy travel, you reach the river. You can either follow the south shore for 1.5-2km to the bridge crossing next to the parking lot, or ford here. It's not a small river so make sure the water level is not too high and try to pick a good spot to cross. Once on the other side, bushwack a very short way (5 minutes) and reach the Little Elbow trail (old road). Follow this road east for the last 1.5km, through the large campground and back to the parking lot.

An alternative descent (or ascent if doing Glasgow by itself) would be via the easier West ridge, described in Alan Kane's Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies. However I have no personal account on this and will leave it for someone else to add.