North Face Route

Overview

This is probably the most direct route to the summit from the basecamp drop off point. It can be done in as little as 4 hours, depending on conditions.

Getting There

from base camp- skirt around(heading left if facing the peak) scree/loose rock slope until you find an easier/shorter way to ascend it. ascend the short scree slope until it flattens out. head up the broad gully until you reach the snowfield/glacier.

Route Description

Once on the glacier, head towards the immense dome with a rock wall on the lower section. by pass the rockwall to the right(when facing it). continue traversing/ascending the dome. it seems to go on forever. don´t go all the way to summit of the dome. after traversing the dome (heading south) you ll see the small rock/snow summit which is a few meter higher than the dome. there maybe some rock scrambling involved to reach the summit depending on when you climb.

Essential Gear

standard high altitude gear, crampons, ice axe.
Rope is optional as there are no crevasses.

External Links

www.andeshandbook.clhas a great route descritpion and photo of route(spanish only)

Images

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