Ridge SE

Route

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Geography

Routes in France, Spain

Parents

Pica d'Estats

Routes

Pinet (French normal)

Vallferrera-Normal

Ridge SE

Page Type: Route

Location: Aričge/Lleida, France/Spain, Europe

Route Type: Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: A long day

Rock Difficulty: 5.0 (YDS)

Grade: III

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Page By: Rafa Bartolome

Created/Edited: Sep 8, 2006 / Sep 13, 2006

Object ID: 224076

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Page Score: 86.16% - 1 Votes

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Table of Contents

Overview

The SE ridge of Pica d'Estats it's the most difficult of the normal routes to the summit. The aerial stepcrossings with grade II+ make a route generally for mountaineers with experience.
The route it's possible to realize in 2 days with night with tent in the estany de Sotllo (2h 30 min from mountain hut of Vallferrera)

Getting There

The trailhead is the same of the route of Vallferrera. See the main page to approach.

Route Description

Ridge SE

The first part of the route to estany d'estats it's the same of Normal route from Vallferrera.

Estany d'Estats (2480m, 2h40min), in the point what the normal route go to left side (west) to border the lake we walk in right direction searching a ramp to climb to west side. The hard slope among the stones bring to us to the waterfall of Conca Gelada. To evitate the waterfall we go to right to the hillsides of peak of Estany Fons. We reach the little lake of Estany Gelat at 2600m. Bordering the lake we reach a little valley to reach the bottom of NW face of peak Canalbona and the Col North of this peak (2910m, 4h). We turn to left (some cairns) and we descent to NE to the collet Franc de Riufret (2920m, 4h 30min). We go to NE across a hard ramp of stones to reach the peak Rodó de Canalbona (3004m) (cairn, 4h45min).

Pta Gabarró

We descent to a new col and after a new ramp and a narrow ridge to the summit of Punta Gabarró (3115m) (geodesic vertex, 5h).
The ridge what join Gabarró with Pica d'Estats is the hardest part of the route. Descending to the col we get the ridge (grade I+) and following the cairns we reach a chimney of II- to exit to the ridge (exposed). In the ridge we arrive to the keypoint, a short wall of II+ with a little place to put the foots. After this impressive pass we follow the last meters of the ridge (I+, exposed) to the summit of Pica d'Estats (3143m, 5h40min)

Essential Gear

Rope it's advisable to some stepcrossings.

External Links

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