A long face crack splitting the upper wall provides a beautiful line and fun climbing on excellent rock (after a brief section of crumbly rock starting the first pitch).

A casual (non-early) start is advised, to maximize sunshine on this enjoyable crack climbing classic.

FA - Fred Beckey, Dave Beckstead, 1965
FFA - Steve Risse, Dave Tower, 1985

Getting There

As for other routes on the west side of the Liberty Bell / Early Winter Spires group, take the Blue Lake Trail past a few switchbacks to the open meadow, where the obvious climbers' trail heads up the hill on the left. Head for the base of the West Face of SEWS, and then contour back left on a light trail along the base of NEWS.

Route Description

The route starts on the left side of the West Face, left of a white flake.

p1 5.8 - up and right on good holds to slightly rotten flake system. Reach high to place a 3.5" cam in a flaring crack to protect the the initial hard moves. Moderate climbing with reasonable protection follows. A few friendly chimney moves are encountered. Reach a terrace with many small trees; belay high and use many slings to reduce rope drag, or belay low and scramble together to move the belay up. (Same first pitch as the Northwest Corner).

p2 5.8 - up a steep right facing corner on large holds and good jams with lots of pro. Above a rest ledge on the left, continue up a clean crack with a few more 5.8 moves. Belay at a small ledge with several cams at the anchor. This pitch is rated 5.9 on some topos but it does not have any 5.9 moves and it has several rests. It may be advisable to belay at the rest ledge halfway up this pitch, if you are concerned about a possible "factor 2 fall" on the 5.8 lieback starting p3.

p3 5.9 - start with a short (8') unprotected 5.8 lieback up a 5" flake. Quickly you have the hold of your dreams and easy climbing to clip a bunch of slings on a flake. Out right to clip a bolt at the lip, which protects the start of an airy 5.9 undercling/lieback. Off-balance moves with decent small footholds are protected by a small cam and a fixed pin. Easier moves on beautiful rock reach a fabulous belay on a dike below the crux. An entertaining 5.9 pitch for 5.10 leaders.

p4 5.10c - up the obvious thin finger crack above, which is very well protected with small wired nuts and TCUs. Foot pockets and the relatively low angle make this reasonable, especially if you have smaller fingers. After about 15-20' your fingers go in deep and difficulties ease to 5.9. Left on good holds to a shallow corner and belay at an old stump with good gear. Rated 5.10d or even 5.11- on some topos, but by comparison it is definitely easier than the crux of Serenity Crack (5.10d) in Yosemite.

p5 5.10b - up the beautiful straight face crack above, fairly shallow and more sustained than the previous pitch. After 20' you get deep fingerlocks and it widens to low angle thin hand and easy 5.7 hand jamming. Belay in a pod if you want to get photos, or combine with the next pitch.

p6 5.7 - up the easy crack to a fixed pin and old bolt. Climb down and free the old pendulum on mellow 5.7 friction. A moderate 5.6 crack leads to the summit area and register.

Essential Gear

Set of cams, double small wired nuts and TCUs.

One 60m rope is sufficient for rappelling down the S/SW route, although it does not quite reach to the best anchors (fixed pins) on the second rappel, so be prepared to downclimb a few moves there and possibly place a little gear temporarily.

External Links

Eric and Lucie's Northwest Corner and West Face trip report 2003

Mountain Project

Images



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