Concur with Author that Chute on Bishop Pass side is 4th class at times with plenty of rockfall hazards.We felt that Secor's description of an easy chute to be a bit downplayed. Pretty challenging with a full size backpack. Wooden Post on Pass helps significantly with routefinding from 5th Lake side of pass. Climb up from 5th Lake involves a lot of boulder hopping but awesome views and solitude.
I second the claim that Jigsaw is challenging with a full size backpack. I descended that chute with a full pack, and I was terrified most of the time. The rock is horribly loose, and there are at least two steep drops that would disastrous if a slip occurred above them, and would otherwise be difficult to down-climb even with a day pack. The scree/talus/sand at the bottom is also difficult to descend with a full pack, because it is steep and loose. I slipped a few times and bloodied my hands. And the boulder field that must be traversed to access the chute (from Bishop Pass area) is exhausting because the rocks are huge. I'm glad I bagged Gendarme, Aperture, and Robinson while I was up there, because I will never take Jigsaw again (up or down). My guess is it's the reason why peaks like Aperture aren't climbed more often. (Because what else could explain it? I mean, Aperture from Jigsaw is a fantastic scramble.)
I'd also like to add that there are at least two main Class 3 chutes on the NW face, separated by a kind of arête. The chute closest to the NW Ridge (on climber's right) is steeper and spicier, and has better rock (much less sand/scree). You can actually shift back and forth between this chute and the ridge, as there is no clear division between the two, and there are many possible lines. The slabs/flakes at the bottom of the ridge (directly up from Jigsaw) are a good way to start the route; you can climb for a hundred feet or so, then work your way left into the chute once the slabs get to steep/scary. That's what I did, and it was a blast!
surfusmc - Aug 21, 2010 3:20 am - Voted 7/10
Jigsaw ChallengingConcur with Author that Chute on Bishop Pass side is 4th class at times with plenty of rockfall hazards.We felt that Secor's description of an easy chute to be a bit downplayed. Pretty challenging with a full size backpack. Wooden Post on Pass helps significantly with routefinding from 5th Lake side of pass. Climb up from 5th Lake involves a lot of boulder hopping but awesome views and solitude.
CWessels - Jul 18, 2015 5:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Jigsaw TerribleI second the claim that Jigsaw is challenging with a full size backpack. I descended that chute with a full pack, and I was terrified most of the time. The rock is horribly loose, and there are at least two steep drops that would disastrous if a slip occurred above them, and would otherwise be difficult to down-climb even with a day pack. The scree/talus/sand at the bottom is also difficult to descend with a full pack, because it is steep and loose. I slipped a few times and bloodied my hands. And the boulder field that must be traversed to access the chute (from Bishop Pass area) is exhausting because the rocks are huge. I'm glad I bagged Gendarme, Aperture, and Robinson while I was up there, because I will never take Jigsaw again (up or down). My guess is it's the reason why peaks like Aperture aren't climbed more often. (Because what else could explain it? I mean, Aperture from Jigsaw is a fantastic scramble.)
CWessels - Jul 18, 2015 5:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Class 3 Chute(s)I'd also like to add that there are at least two main Class 3 chutes on the NW face, separated by a kind of arête. The chute closest to the NW Ridge (on climber's right) is steeper and spicier, and has better rock (much less sand/scree). You can actually shift back and forth between this chute and the ridge, as there is no clear division between the two, and there are many possible lines. The slabs/flakes at the bottom of the ridge (directly up from Jigsaw) are a good way to start the route; you can climb for a hundred feet or so, then work your way left into the chute once the slabs get to steep/scary. That's what I did, and it was a blast!