Normal route

Description

The Capo a Dente is accessed from SW via the Bocca di Tartaigne (1852m). The ridge can easily be followed in direction to P.1993 (cairns); switch to the right hand side (in direction of ascent, i.e. eastwards) and find a way through the cirque, aiming for the small col right before the peak itself. This col is marked by a sharp needle and is the start of the climb.

From the col a band leads nearly horizontally for let's say a hundred meters into the NW face, well visible up to a couloir. What you don't see, after a very short piece of rock (UIAA II+) the band continues another ten meters to a second couloir which ist much more suitable for ascent.

This couloir consists of some meters easy friction climbing on good solid granite and a somewhat steeper part with good handholds, but sometimes brittle. It ends on the summit ridge, only few meters and blocks from the top. A sling for abseil is installed, when I was there a rope reached down half the couloir.