Punta Dallago

Overview

Punta Dallago 2470 m

Punta Dallago 2470 m is a little summit located to the West of Forcella Averau 2475 m, nearby the most famous summit of Averau.  Punta Dallago has a nice rocky face on its South side, while its North side goes down with short slopes of grass and scree toward Passo Falzarego. Via della Vipera, meaning Viper's route, is a pleasant trad-climbing route running on Punta Dallago.
Via della Vipera was first climbed in 1969 by Franz Dallago and G. Peretti: it's an easy route, but very amusing and various. Very advisable for all climbers searching an undemanding route, not crowded, easy to protect.

Approach

Leave the car at the parking of the chairlift Fedare, placed along the route starting from Colle Santa Lucia to Passo Giau. Take the chairlift to the Averau hut (Forcella Nuovolau): from there, follow downhill the trail 441 until you arrive under Punta Dallago. Here leave the trail and walk up toward the bottom of the South face, rising up meadows and gravel slopes. The start of the route is shown by a red piton (about 30min from the arrival of chairlift).

If you don't want to take the chairlift, you can start to walk from the parking by the path nr 464 to Averau hut: when you are close to the chairlift arrival, take on your left the path 441; from there, like the approach by the chairlift (about 1h from the parking).

Via della Vipera report

Difficulty: IV with a short passage of IV+ UIAA in the pitch 1
Lenght: 145m, 5 pitches
Altitude: 2340m-2470m
Rock quality: Very good
Best season to climb: since June to October

Via della Vipera route is relatively easy and amusing: the route climbs the South face, running on slabs, overcoming a little and easy overhang and a chimney. Belays are all equipped with traditional pitons or with cords in holes.
There aren't pegs along the pitches: it is necessary to protect the climb with your own gears.

Pitch 1: Climb up an easy cliff (IV-, 1 bad piton) to a little overhang: climb the overhang (1 p. IV+), then with easier climb (III) to the belay (30m, no good pegs, IV, III, 1p IV+, belay on 2 pegs)

Pitch 2: Traverse on the left to a quite vertical ramp: climb up the ramp (IV), then go up straight on easier slabs (IV-) to the terrace where is placed a belay on piton and tunnels (40m, no pegs, IV)

Pitch 3: Climb a beautiful black slab (III, IV-) to an easy ramp with grass (I): at the end of the ramp, on a little notch it's placed the belay on 2 pitons (40m, no pegs, III, IV-)

Pitch 4: Enter in the chimney on the left (a p. III+), then climb it (III, II) to the exit on a terrace: belay on 2 pitons (25m, no pitons, III, 1p III+)

Pitch 5: Climb up a cliff slightly on the left, then directly (IV-); keep climbing up (III) until you arrive to the summit: belay on tunnel (25m, no pegs, IV-, III)

Descent: from the nice summit (wonderful panorama!) walk toward Falzarego pass (North) until you meet the trail nr 441. Follow it toward right (East) to Forcella Averau, then to the Averau hut and the chairlift arrival (about 20min from the summit).

Essential Gear

Helmet, slings and cords, some friends medium size, nuts, two 60m ropes are advised

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

When to Climb

Best months are June, July, August, September and October

Where to stay

At the start of Fedare chairlift, a small but nice hut: 
Rifugio Fedare

At the arrival of Fedare chairlift:
Rifugio Averau

There is a wide choice of other possibilities of accommodations in the Falzarego and Passo Giau area and surroundings: hotels, appartments, campgrounds and huts.

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

Bibliography

Maps and Guides
Best map 1:25000 is Tabacco foglio 03 "Cortina d'Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane"
Best guide: M. Bernardi, "Arrampicare a Cortina d'Ampezzo e dintorni", ed. Athesia (also in german)