Rusty Wall, 5.11a-5.12b

Overview/Approach

The local guide has a list of the “Top 5.10 Cracks” in Joshua Tree.  O’Kelly’s Crack is included at 5.10c on that list.  It was the last of the list for me get ticked off due to its north facing aspect (I racked up over a 1000 climbs in Jtree, but most all during the winter months).  I started it once, way before I had eclipsed a 1000 routes, but it was brutally cold and the “bouldery start” the local guide references did me in enough to leave before finishing the route despite making it through the start.  I returned many years later and found the start damn tough for the grade, cold or not.  When perusing MP.com, I noticed the consensus grade was 5.11a/b with a quote that described the start well, “a gnarly 5.11 boulder problem”.  Many, like myself, seemed to find it more difficult a climb than its four-star neighbor, Wangerbanger, rated 5.11c**** in the local guide as well as at Mp.com.  Both routes offer the opportunity to utilize varied crack skills on excellent rock via a slightly overhanging orange colored wall.  They are both mentioned again in the local guide under “Top 10 Splitters”.

Keys Ranch road is a sandy road that leads west out of the Echo T paved parking area.  Drive to its terminus (locked gate-2023) where there is a restroom that serves the tourists who visit the historic Keys ranch.  Take a trail right next to the restroom heading southwest.  It becomes faint as it continues to bend west then back left up a boulder gully to the base of the obvious orange wall.  It is a relatively short approach. You can scramble down either direction from atop the wall as both of the classics rely on gear for belays or top ropes.  The northwest descent is a bit easier than the southeast, but longer if you are trying to return to the base of the wall.

Routes Listed Right to Left as you Face this Northeast Facing Wall

Finish Where You Started- 5.11c*/

Riddles in the Dark- 5.11c**/

O’Kelly’s Crack- 45’-5.11a***/ MP.com rates O’Kelly’s 5.11a and one of the local guides has it at 5.10c.  Most who lead both O’Kelly’s Crack and Wangerbanger, 5.11c, consider O’Kelly’s to be the more difficult route despite being published four grades apart in one of the local guides.  Most tic’s on MP.com reference same and that O’Kelly’s compares to many mid 11’s that they have led in Joshua Tree or other locales. Some consider it the best route in the park.  O’Kelly’s is located to the right of Wangerbanger. Both routes are slightly overhanging.  It’s start off the deck is by far the crux of the route but it is sustained in the 5.10+ range to the top.  The start has to do with gaining a finger crack to the top of a small pillar located in the weakness.  From there, you get intermittent hands (and a butt rest) until you finish through a wide slot.  If you are a 5.10/11 leader, you will grunt from bottom to top.  Gear belay/TR in floor cracks on top.  Take plenty to extend the TR.  Walk off either direction, but south returns you quicker to the starting ledge via a scramble.  Single from micro cams and wires to #4.  Double #1’s and #2’s.  Slings.  Route gets early morning sun, facing NE.  Dow

Wangerbanger- 40’-5.11c****/ As stated regarding O’Kelly’s Crack, Wangerbanger is an easier climb.  The crux, maybe not quite Jtree 5.11c, is as the crack narrows down to fingers from tight hands mid-way up, just before arm barring into a pod.  The start off the deck is an additional crux, a flaring fist crack that is hard to hold as you get your feet up.  Single to #3, doubles to #2. Not many if any wires or micros needed on this one.  NE facing.  Dow

Slapshot- 5.12b*/