Saddle Rock

Overview

If you like obscure crags, this is one for you.

Not far outside Silver City, on National Forest land, is this sport crag consisting of a cemented tuff conglomerate. Some of the rock is quite chossy, and many routes have high first bolts and runouts, so be ready for some adventure here. One 5.9 here had all three of those characteristics, and it was one of the most terrifying sport routes I have climbed, lol.

Getting There

From U.S. 180 west of Silver City, turn left near milepost 100 onto Saddlerock Canyon Road (may not be signed). A decent-quality dirt road leads 2 miles to its end (make sure you bear right at the first major fork), where you can park and the crag is right there.

To approach the routes, look for a climbers trail to the right of a drainage that includes a (likely dry) waterfall. The trail will drop into a canyon, and you will start seeing bolts. Some scrambling is required to travel up and back down the canyon.

Routes

I have been here just one time and for just a couple of hours at that, so I am not exactly a great source for accurate route descriptions and locations. The Mountain Project page only lists three routes and isn't too helpful, either, but it does have a useful topo and some photos of guidebook pages on this page.

If you go out to climb the 5.6 and 5.7 close to the parking area, please note that they start atop a huge boulder that requires a short 4th class/easy 5th scramble to get up.

Red Tape

None.

When to Climb

Spring and fall would be best.

Camping

Dispersed.