Santa's Chimney, 5.10

b>1st Pitch- 50m- 5.10+/ The first half of this pitch was mossy and fragile, thus a brutal trad lead on suspect rock. The second half opens up more to off-width and chimney climbing offering a bit more security albeit run-out. Start up the right side corner. When you can get off-width you feel secure. When you lose the wide crack, you are forced to rely on suspect holds on the left wall to assist with a small finger crack. On this first pitch, you can place everything from Metolius “00” to a C4 #6 to off-set cams. The top of the pitch reaches a nice ledge up and right that is reached by (much easier than the rest of the pitch) run out chimney climbing. You can even catch some sun on this ledge if you climbed it during the right time of day (afternoon). As I recall, there was a fixed station here, but it is not a rap station. The rap is out left, after the traverse to gain the start of the second pitch. There are rap rings in the middle of the semi-circle. Santa's Chimney, 5.10, 3 Pitches, Coffee Pot Rock, Sedona, AZ, October, 2012