Shady Grove, 5.10a-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Shady Grove has a remote feel despite being located in the center of the Candy Bar area.  It is an extremely well hidden north facing wall located in a brush and cacti filled corridor in the depths of the Little Hunk formation.  You can get there by scrambling south from the Little Hunk (north facing) left wall or from hiking up and around the north side of the East Corner through a notch between Big Hunk on the right and the back side of Solarium on the left.  This is a well-protected alcove (grove), from people and sun.

There are three fully bolted (but sparsely) climbs and three trad/mixed climbs on this relatively small north facing wall.  The most popular of these routes no doubt is its namesake, Shady Grove, 5.10c**, at the far-right end of the wall.  Its crux is one move at the grade that is well bolted lower down.  The route covers 50’ through four bolts (run out at the top below the grade).  The next route left is graded lower, but more serious in terms of runout and is as sustained if not more so, Playing Hockey, 5.10a*.  Fully bolted at three bolts through 55’!  Swain Buckley, 5.10b*, is the next bolted route left.  All three of these bolted routes are together on the right side with no fixed anchor or rap.  Scramble down climber’s right. 

Park at the large gravel lot at Echo Tee or at a paved pull out along Bighorn Pass road, the same parking recommended for Anasazi and Sun Bowl.  If passing beneath Sun Bowl and Anasazi, gain the notch to the northwest by hiking up the hill and boulder hop before descending into the vegetated corridor between Big Hunk on the right and the backside of Solarium on the left.  Shady Grove is the steep well featured wall on your left.  If approaching from the north face routes on Little Hunk, hike around the far-left side routes (hard overhanging bolted routes) and scramble up slick rock to gain the vegetated corridor.  Shady Grove is straight ahead to the south.

Routes Listed Right to Left as Approached from the North

Shady Grove- 55’-5.10c*/ A soft lead for the grade in Jtree.  The crux is through the slab and slight edges before you make two mantles above to juggy varnished holds. This route is considerably better protected via its four bolts vs Playing Hockey. Same descent and gear belay as Playing Hockey.  Dow

Playing Hockey- 55’-5.10a*/ Fully bolted climb with three bolts poorly placed.  You start up the right side of a boulder on the right side of the wall and start climbing the face quickly clipping a bolt off the deck.  A potential deck fall exists if you fall before clipping the 2^nd bolt.  The start is the crux, maneuvering edges before you reach the varnished juggy terrain above and the 2^nd clip.  Make steep airy moves over a small ledge before clipping your 3^rd bolt, again, potential injury from the ledge if you fall before clipping the last bolt.  Run out from there to the top of the formation, #2-#4 for a trad anchor.  Scramble down climbers right. Dow

Swain-Buckley- 50’-5.10b*/

Return of the Chuckawalla- 50’-5.10c*/

Revenge of the Chuckawalla- 50’-5.11c*/

Point of No Return- 5.10c*/ (this route is more in line, approach and location wise, with the Little Hunk East Corner routes, but included with Shady Grove in Miramontes guide)