It was the point in the summer where Jason and I were ready for some solid rock climbing minus any bushwhacking. So, we decided to climb the East Face (aka Rebel Yell) of Chianti Spire (click for trip report for this fun rock climb). On this trip we also climbed Silver Star Mountain via the Silver Star Glacier, since SIlver Star shares the same approach as Chianti Spire. Silver Star was a short and easy climb, so when we arrived back in camp early in the evening, I decided to scramble up the North Ridge of Vasiliki Tower. Vasiliki Tower is the towering rock on the north side of Burgundy Col; an interesting fact is that I think Fred Beckey named Vasiliki Tower after his girlfriend at the time.
Below is an overview and photo trip report from Silver Star Mountain and Vasiliki Tower.
Route Overlay Silver Star
Route Overlay Vasiliki Tower
(Taken from the summit of Silver Star Mountain.)
Route Info Silver Star
Summit:Silver Star Mountain Location: Wine Spires, just E of Washington Pass Route: Silver Star Glacier Difficulty: II, Class 3 Summit Elevation: 8,876 ft (East Peak) Elevation gain: 4,626' from the car, 1150' from col Approach: A climber's trail begins off HWY 20 at elev. 4250' and heads eastward up to Burgundy Col; the Silver Star Glacier is just off the east side of the col (to col: <5 miles, 3500' up, xx hours) (Note: alternate approach is via Silver Creek from HWY 20) Descent: descend route Time: 1-2 days (can be done car-to-car or can camp at col)
Route Info Vasiliki Tower
Summit:Vasiliki Tower Location: Wine Spires, just E of Washington Pass Route: North Ridge (Note: there are also some 5th class routes on Vasiliki Tower, such as the South Face or the NW Dihedral.) Difficulty: Class 3 Summit Elevation: 7,920 ft Elevation gain: 200' from the col (although have to go down first) Approach: The north ridge is on the opposite side from Burgundy Col. From the col, I traversed around the tower on the west side on Class 4 rock. It is also possible to descend further to Class 3 terrain on the west side. Descent: descend route Time: 1 hour round trip from Burgundy Col
HWY 20 Parking: 4,250 ft Burgundy Col: 7,720 ft Silver Star Summit (East Peak): 8,876 ft Vasiliki Tower Summit: 7,920 ft
ice axe and crampons for Silver Star, nothing special for Vasiliki unless you climb a 5th class route
Silver Star Mountain is located outside of the North Cascades National Park, so permits are not needed.
Parking to Burgundy Col: 3 hours Burgundy Col to Silver Star summit: 1 hour 15 min Burgundy Col to Vasiliki Tower summit: 1 hour Hike out to car from Burgundy Col: 2.1 hours
Photos from the climb of Silver Star Mountain
After dropping our extra overnight gear at Burgundy Col, we headed up towards the summit of Silver Star via the Silver Star Glacier. This was a short, easy, and enjoyable glacier climb. It took us 1 hour and 15 minutes to the summit. Below are some photos from the climb.
Photos from the climb of Vasiliki Tower
We got back to camp early from climbing Silver Star, so I decided to scramble up Vasiliki Tower, which towers above the north side of Burgundy Col. An interesting fact is that I think Fred Beckey named Vasiliki Tower after his girlfriend at the time. This was a fun and easy Class 3 scramble. It took me about 1 hour round trip col-summit-col. Below are some photos from the climb.
Photos from the approach and camp at Burgundy Col
It is possible to climb Silver Star in one long day from the car. However, our main destination of the trip was Rebel Yell on Chianti Spire on the following day, so we camped at Burgundy Col. We found a snow patch for
water, but water here is difficult to find in late summer. Below are
some photos from the approach and from camp at Burgundy Col. It was a
great night for star photography and for photographing cars driving by
far below on HWY 20!
More on my website
This trip report is copied from my website, which has several other climbing trip reports and photographs from the North Cascades and elsewhere: www.stephabegg.com.
"All men dream, but not equally. Those who dream by night, in the dusty recesses of their minds, awake in the day to find that it was vanity. But the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes to make it reality."