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Siroka Veza
Mountain/Rock

Siroka Veza

 
Siroka Veza

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Slovakia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.11400°N / 20.11000°E

Object Title: Siroka Veza

Elevation: 8090 ft / 2466 m

 

Page By: dynercia

Created/Edited: Nov 23, 2005 / Dec 12, 2005

Object ID: 155035

Hits: 6428 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview



Široká Veža / Mały Lodowy Szczyt is a towering summit in the middle part of the Tatra Mountains’ main ridge. It is frequently visited by climbers as well as by tourists. Its east and south walls are very interesting and easily accessible for climbers. However hikers can reach easily the top from Priečne Sedlo.


Široká Veža (left), Ostrý Štit (right) and L'adový Štit (background) from Zbojnicka Chata in Vel’ká Studená Valley

A long lateral ridge detaches from Široká Veža, which separates Vel’ká Studená / Staroleśna Valley and Malá Studená / Małej Zimnej Wody Valley. Prostredný Hrot / Pośrednia Grań is the higest summit of this ridge.

Široká Veža ascends over Zadná Javorová / Zadnia Jaworowa Valley (north-west), Dolinka pod Sedielkom / Lodowa Dolinka (north-east), which is a branch of Malá Studená Valley and Vel’ká Studená / Staroleśna Valley (south). On the north it is separated from L’adový Štit / Lodowy Szczyt massif by Sedielko / Lodowa Przełęcz, on the south-west from Ostrý Štit / Ostry Szczyt by Biela Lávka / Biała Ławka and on south-east from Prostredný Hrot massif by Priečne Sedlo / Czerwona Ławka.

Józef Déry with a guide Johann Hunsdorfer senior reached the summit as the first in 1896 year. In winter the first ascend belongs toTibold Kregczy, Lajos Rokfalusy and Zoltan Votisky (1911).

Getting There



FROM SLOVAKIAN SIDE:

The major city in this area is Poprad, where you can get by bus or train. From Poprad there is a lot of buses and trains to Starý Smokovec (13km) at the foot of Tatra:
train time table
bus time table
train time table from Poprad to Starý Smokovec Tatranská elektrická železnica

Maps of Starý Smokovec and Tatranská Lomnica

FROM POLISH SIDE:

The best point to stars the journey is Zakopane – the biggest town on Polish side of Tatra Mountains. You can get there from Kraków by bus (most recommended), car or train:
By bus: there are a lot of buses from Kraków to Zakopane - time table of PKS and private lines Frey and Szwagropol.
By train: the road is much longer and dearer than by bus - time table from Kraków 0.00-11.59 a.m., 12.00-11.59 p.m. and from Zakopane.
By car: from Kraków take a road number 7 to Chyżne and follow it to Rabka. Here this road turn right to Chyżne, but you follow still straight a head in south direction by road number 95. In Poronin 5 km before Zakopane turn left (east) to border crossing point in Łysa Polana.

From Zakopane: Take a bus to Polana Palenica (time table of PKS, in high season there are a lot of private buses, too – a station is opposite to PKS) and get off in Łysa Polana / Lysá Pol’ana (Attention! private buses sometimes has a direction-board “Morskie Oko”). Cross the polish-slovakian border . Bus station on Slovakian side is about 100m after border crossing point on the right. Take a bus to Poprad, which goes through Starý Smokovec (time table).

IN MOUNTAIN:

Approach to Teryho Chata:
From Stary Smokovec follow green marked trail to Hrebienok / Siodelko (you can take there cable railway (“lanovka”) – (time table ) – 1 h 15 min. Next follow red marked trail in Skalnata Chata direction and after about 45 min turn left on green marked trail, leading to Teryho Chata (2 h).

Approach to Zbojnicka Chata:
From Stary Smokovec follow green marked trail to Hrebienok / Siodelko (you can take there cable railway (“lanovka”) – (time table ) – 1 h 15 min. Next follow red marked trail in Skalnata Chata direction and after about 15 min turn left on blue-marked trail, leading to Zbojnicka Chata (2 h 30 min).


Routes overview



NORMAL ROUTES:

From Priečne Sedlo - the easiest and the shortest route on Široká Veža, available for hikers.
From Sedielko - a more difficult and longer route, but more interesting than previous

CLIMBINGS ROUTES

East wall:
general TOPO
Approach: from Terycho Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to a place where green and yellow marks separate in Dolinka pod Sedielkom / Lodowa Dolinka. Now the east wall of Široká Veža is situated exactly in the west direction before your face.
1. Kútom (V+,A0) 3h. TOPO
2. Malý Beňo (IV+,A0) 7h. TOPO
3. Ľavým žľabom (IV-V) 5h. (by left couloir)
4. Hurikán Bob (V,A1) 5,5h. TOPO
5. Bruckner-Grósz (II-III) 2,5h.
6. Prahová depresia (IV) 4h. TOPO
7. Cez hradbu (V-) 5h. TOPO
8. Rohová (IV+) 6h. TOPO

South wall:
general TOPO
Approach: from Zbojnicka Chata take a yellow-marked trail leading on Priečne Sedlo and follow it to Strelecké Polia / Strzeleckie Pola – the highest part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. Now you have the south wall of Široká Veža on your left hand in the north direction.
1. JZ hrana (IV-V) 2h.
2. Maškov kút (VI) 4h.
3. Čerešňový pilier (V) 3h. TOPO
4. Klasická cesta (IV) 3h. TOPO
5. Grósz-Páleníček (V+,A1-A2) 5h. TOPO
6. Opavská cesta (VI-,A3) 9h. TOPO
7. Všetko v poriadku (V,A0) 4h. TOPO
8. Motykova cesta (V) 3h. TOPO
9. Pánská jízda (VI) 3h. TOPO
10.Pravým vhĺbením steny (IV-V) 1,5h.


Maps




Map of Široká Veža’ area

Tatry Wysokie, in scale 1:25 000, description in 6 languages, ISBN 83-87873-26-8, available in all shops in Zakopane. Here you can look at net version.
A high quality maps in scales 1:25 000 and 1:50 000 are produced VKU Harmanec, too. They are available at all chalets and shops in cities under Vysoke Tatry.


When To Climb


The best time is a summer and early autumn (June - October), but the summit is available within the whole year.

Red Tape



The “High Tatra” is a National park, UN Bioheritage area and a European BioHeritage - if you are not a member of any climbing club you can move only on marked trails - so you can visit Široká Veža only with Tatra guide.

In winter time (from November the 1st – June the 15th) The Tatra Mountains in Slovakian part are closed for normal tourists (not for climbers). In Polish part you can move the whole of year.

For more informations look at High Tatra/Vysoke Tatry GROUP page.
For climbing regulations look at
Gerlachovsky Stit page.


Accommodation



There are two chalets near by Široká Veža:

Zbojnicka Chata situated in upper part of Vel’ká Studená Valley. Chalet is opened all the year for hiking, climbing and ski mountaineering.
Access from:
1. Starý Smokovec – green/red/blue-marked trail, 3 h 45 min
2. Hrebienok – red/blue-marked trail, 2 h 45 min
3. Teryho Chata – yellow-marked trail (3 h)
4. Lysa Pol’ana – blue-marked trail (6 h 15min)
Contact:
adres: Zbojnícka chata, 062 01 Starý Smokovec, Vysoké Tatry, Slovakia
mail: info@zbojnickachata.sk
telephone: ++421 903 638 000 or +421 903 619 000

Teryho Chata (“Terinka”) situated in Piatich Spisskych Plies (Pieciu Stawów Spiskich) Valley. Chalet is opened all the year for hiking, climbing and ski mountaineering.
Access from:
1. Zamkovskeho chata - green marked trail, 2 hours
2. Skalnate pleso - red marked trail, 2 h 50 min
3. Hrebienok - green/red marked trails, approx. 3 h
4. Zbojnicka chata via Velka Studena dolina and pass Priecne sedlo, yellow marked trail, 3 h
5. Tatranska Javorina - via Javorova dolina and pass Sedielko green marked trail, 6 h
Contact:
Téryho chata, 062 01 Starý Smokovec, Slovakia
telephone: ++421-52-4425245
mobil ++421-905-893 233

Absolutely no camping is permitted in the nature park. The nearest camping in Slovakian side is in Stara Lesna and Tatranska Lomnica.

There are plenty of cheap hotels and pensions in the area of Stary Smokovec and Štrbské Pleso: accommodation


Mountain Conditions



Web forecast:
situation at this moment and forecast

Information of avalanche danger:
TOPR (in English) and HZS

Rescue:
On Slovakian side acts HZS (Horska Zachranna Sluzba)
Starý Smokovec 23, 059 60 Vysoké Tatry
phon.: 052/4422820, fax: 052/4422855,
mobil: 0903624869
e-mail: vtatry@hzs.sk
www.hzs.sk


Images