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jhalzRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: January 22, 2005  Sucess!


Amazing Jan. day. We were the first ones on the route. The bolt ladder was a fun new experience.
Posted Jan 27, 2005 10:28 am

SpungdeeperRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: 11/7/04


Lead the 2nd pitch and the third. There was three of us and it took a rediuclously long time, with the person seconding me on the aid pitch unable to finish the cleaning, rapped off and left gear and a headache on the ladder.


Run, get to the Chopper.
Posted Nov 12, 2004 5:51 am

jtschanzRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: September 12, 2004


I'm putting down an attempt as well because, damn it, it was a lot of work!!

Haydar and I got halfway up the bolt ladder only to discover a bolt missing. There was no way to reach the next bolt (over 6 feet above my head). So we rapped down and started scheming. Haydar ran back to the car for the tent poles while I fashioned a clip stick out of a biner, rubber band, and two shoelaces. I then jumared back up to the ledge, belayed Haydar up, and got back on the bolt ladder. Duct taping the biner to the tent pole, I extended the 20-foot pole, reached up, and clipped the next bolt. Shocked that it actually worked, I tied slings to extend my aiders and somehow made up up the ladder. Cleaning the pitch was difficult, but Haydar made it up into the cave as well. However we had both spent too long on the aid and we were tired and hungry. I basically chickened out on the 5.7 move out of the cave, took a short fall, and lost all desire to continue. We rapped off with a new respect for aid climbing and exposed 5.7 moves ...
Posted Sep 13, 2004 1:41 pm

M and N DenyerRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route and West Face Variation Date Climbed: multiple  Sucess!

M and N Denyer

We have enjoyed Monkey Face numerous times on both the Pioneer Route and the West Face Variation.
Posted Mar 29, 2004 6:23 pm

wildstarRoute Climbed: Pioneer Route Date Climbed: April 1995  Sucess!


Great trip with a good friend. My first experience with aiders which was laughable but we made it. Looking forward to doing it again some day.
Posted Jan 3, 2004 6:18 pm

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: West Face Variation, Pioneer Route Date Climbed: February 15 and 16, 2003

Brian Jenkins

oh well, guess it's ok to put down attempts, right?...............

Saturday tried the West Face Variation but with 4 of us and some interesting rope snags, it took forever. We got up 2 pitches and then rapped off as we knew we wouldn't make it.

Went back Sunday and tried the Pioneer Route. Made it to Bohn Street and the wind picked up, some snow started and my testicles were nowhere to be found looking up at the aid pitch having never done any aiding before. So, I rapped down while 2 others went on. They made it to the Nose but the snow was blowing sideways by then and they just rapped off from there.

Another group had set up a Tyrolean traverse to the Springboard with some webbing and were going back and forth. Found out they were setting up a line to try to tightrope walk it. Watched one guy get one foot on it and then back off dozens of times before it looked like they figured it was too windy.
Posted Feb 17, 2003 9:37 am

darinchadwickRoute Climbed: Pioneer route, west face variation Date Climbed: 2.5X most recent 1999  Sucess!


The first time I climbed this, I had only been climbing a handful of times. Needless to say, this was an exhilirating step up in difficulty and exposure. The second and 3rd times were much easier, though the moves at Panic Point never lose their thrill. We got stormed off once, with hard rain and lightning. Rapping out of the cave in a thunderstorm is really fun! The rain wicks down the ropes, and the wind spins you around, really, a fun time.

Some advice, it's easier to lead the aid pitch, than to follow on jumars, or the second should aid the pitch as well while cleaning. The overhang and traverse makes the top awkward with just jumars.
Posted Feb 13, 2003 12:38 am

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