Great knowledge sharin'. I would also mention the importance of walking down from Camp Muir in the right direction. People should know that traveling straight downhill leads to the Nisqually. You need to angle leftward for a long time. I was on a winter attempt where a guy didn't know this and zoomed ahead of us straight downhill. We couldn't get his attention in the "ground blizzard" for a really long time. Kind of stressful.
Your sound advice is very relevant for those attempting the climb without guides. It should be noted that for those mountaineers wishing to use a guide for the climb (always the best way for newcomers to the area) Rainier Mountaineering has almost exclusive monopoly!
This option implies booking long before (months or even the year before) and RMI also demands participation in the compulsory snow & ice training course on the day before the actual climb. Their guides are very experienced but the climb itself can be very regimented (almost reminds of "boot camp"). Nevertheless it is the safest way to avoid weather related disasters!
Thanks a lot for the article! I have a question re: gear.
I'm planning on a self-guided climb in late August via DC. My question is, do I need a 4-season tent, or 3-season would be sufficient to camp either at Camp Muir or Ingraham Flats? Don't want to bring any unnecessary weight... TIA! Or do you think I have a fair chance to get a spot at the public shelter at Camp Muir?
ExcitableBoy - Apr 30, 2009 11:47 am - Hasn't voted
Tent in August
Hello welle,
Getting a spot in the public shelter during the height of the season, especially on a weekend, is a crap shoot. I would recommend bringing a tent with you and when you register for the climb at the Ranger station you can find out if there is room left. Then you can make a decision whether or not to pack the tent.
Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats are both somewhat sheltered so if the weather is not completely terrible you can get away with a 3 season tent. August typically has very stable weather. I personally use a tarp (Black Diamond Betamid) on Rainier, however, I insist upon good weather for my climbs, something I can do since I live within 2 hours of the mountain.
Thanks, EB! I noticed both Alpine Ascents and RMI list avalanche transceivers on their gear lists even for their Camp Muir-DC routes. Are avalanches an issue in August? Thanks again.
ExcitableBoy - May 1, 2009 12:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Avalanche transceivers
Avalanches can and have occurred during the summer months. A few years ago a party was descending the cleaver when the uphill climber caused an avalanche that swept several members of the rope team off the cleaver. http://articles.latimes.com/1998/jun/12/news/mn-59293
That said I personally do not wear an avalanche transceiver except in the winter.
why the hell didn't you tell me this earlier? Ha! . . . yeah, I knew all about the bottom of the nose, but . . . Just did Rainers' little brother (or cousin?) to the south, SHASTA and for some reason, did not apply sunscreen all the time, but once. I am paying for it now with a face that feels dry and painful when I move it and my nose too the worst of it. Ouch! great write up and will certainly go , 'hard copy' and into my file. thanks
Cool article. (but)
I'm not experienced at all, but why exactly do you need speed to climb this (or any other) mountain?
Sprinter's speed, as I understand it, is extreme speed you can use only for a very short time. Do you need to make a sudden "rush" at any point in the climb?
ExcitableBoy - May 3, 2009 12:09 pm - Hasn't voted
speed
I do not necessarily mean running fast, but the ability to work at (and beyond) your aerobic threshold and recover quickly. On Rainier there are definitely situations that call for short bursts of hard effort, for example post holing at 14,000 feet or pulling over the bergschrund below Liberty Cap. Developing the power and the ability to quickly recover from hard effort is a necessary component of climbing mountains. Furthermore, the more speed and power you have the easier it will be to slog at a sustained pace. I urge you to read Extreme Alpinism, Climbing Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight for an excellent treatise on training for alpine climbing.
Thank you very much for the article and the fact that you touched upon winter is awesome! Just a little curious, you got any other tib bits of advice for a winter ascent? I am a fairly competent and experienced mountaineer here in CO and we are looking to do a winter ascent this March. We will be covering the basics like avy danger and crevasse rescue. Thanks a bunch!!
mvs - Apr 20, 2009 1:46 pm - Voted 10/10
Awesome Dan!Great knowledge sharin'. I would also mention the importance of walking down from Camp Muir in the right direction. People should know that traveling straight downhill leads to the Nisqually. You need to angle leftward for a long time. I was on a winter attempt where a guy didn't know this and zoomed ahead of us straight downhill. We couldn't get his attention in the "ground blizzard" for a really long time. Kind of stressful.
JanG - Apr 20, 2009 8:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice ReportYour sound advice is very relevant for those attempting the climb without guides. It should be noted that for those mountaineers wishing to use a guide for the climb (always the best way for newcomers to the area) Rainier Mountaineering has almost exclusive monopoly!
This option implies booking long before (months or even the year before) and RMI also demands participation in the compulsory snow & ice training course on the day before the actual climb. Their guides are very experienced but the climb itself can be very regimented (almost reminds of "boot camp"). Nevertheless it is the safest way to avoid weather related disasters!
JanG
Dmitry Pruss - Apr 27, 2009 12:43 pm - Voted 10/10
Links to routes are hangingdue to an extra "http://". Nice work otherwise, I would mention the rough estimates of days to allocate for this.
ExcitableBoy - Apr 27, 2009 2:43 pm - Hasn't voted
Links to routes are hangingThanks for the heads up on the links, I fixed them.
rpc - Apr 29, 2009 4:21 pm - Voted 10/10
generouswhen people with the experience/know-how choose to share. very useful article.
ExcitableBoy - Apr 29, 2009 9:06 pm - Hasn't voted
generousThanks so muc rpc! That means a lot coming from you!
welle - Apr 30, 2009 10:54 am - Hasn't voted
What type of Tent in August?Thanks a lot for the article! I have a question re: gear.
I'm planning on a self-guided climb in late August via DC. My question is, do I need a 4-season tent, or 3-season would be sufficient to camp either at Camp Muir or Ingraham Flats? Don't want to bring any unnecessary weight... TIA! Or do you think I have a fair chance to get a spot at the public shelter at Camp Muir?
ExcitableBoy - Apr 30, 2009 11:47 am - Hasn't voted
Tent in AugustHello welle,
Getting a spot in the public shelter during the height of the season, especially on a weekend, is a crap shoot. I would recommend bringing a tent with you and when you register for the climb at the Ranger station you can find out if there is room left. Then you can make a decision whether or not to pack the tent.
Camp Muir and Ingraham Flats are both somewhat sheltered so if the weather is not completely terrible you can get away with a 3 season tent. August typically has very stable weather. I personally use a tarp (Black Diamond Betamid) on Rainier, however, I insist upon good weather for my climbs, something I can do since I live within 2 hours of the mountain.
Best of luck on your trip!
welle - May 1, 2009 10:57 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Tent in AugustThanks, EB! I noticed both Alpine Ascents and RMI list avalanche transceivers on their gear lists even for their Camp Muir-DC routes. Are avalanches an issue in August? Thanks again.
ExcitableBoy - May 1, 2009 12:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Avalanche transceiversAvalanches can and have occurred during the summer months. A few years ago a party was descending the cleaver when the uphill climber caused an avalanche that swept several members of the rope team off the cleaver. http://articles.latimes.com/1998/jun/12/news/mn-59293
That said I personally do not wear an avalanche transceiver except in the winter.
rlshattuck - May 2, 2009 4:17 am - Hasn't voted
bottom of the nose?????why the hell didn't you tell me this earlier? Ha! . . . yeah, I knew all about the bottom of the nose, but . . . Just did Rainers' little brother (or cousin?) to the south, SHASTA and for some reason, did not apply sunscreen all the time, but once. I am paying for it now with a face that feels dry and painful when I move it and my nose too the worst of it. Ouch! great write up and will certainly go , 'hard copy' and into my file. thanks
kwiatek - May 3, 2009 11:32 am - Hasn't voted
speed of a sprinter?Cool article. (but)
I'm not experienced at all, but why exactly do you need speed to climb this (or any other) mountain?
Sprinter's speed, as I understand it, is extreme speed you can use only for a very short time. Do you need to make a sudden "rush" at any point in the climb?
ExcitableBoy - May 3, 2009 12:09 pm - Hasn't voted
speedI do not necessarily mean running fast, but the ability to work at (and beyond) your aerobic threshold and recover quickly. On Rainier there are definitely situations that call for short bursts of hard effort, for example post holing at 14,000 feet or pulling over the bergschrund below Liberty Cap. Developing the power and the ability to quickly recover from hard effort is a necessary component of climbing mountains. Furthermore, the more speed and power you have the easier it will be to slog at a sustained pace. I urge you to read Extreme Alpinism, Climbing Light, Fast, and High by Mark Twight for an excellent treatise on training for alpine climbing.
kwiatek - May 3, 2009 1:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: speedthanks for the info and reference. I'll definitely read it.
cheers
Rob Ricks - May 5, 2009 5:16 am - Voted 10/10
NW IconThanks for the outstanding summary. Rainier is why I started climbing. Like for many PNW climbers it will always be a part of me. RR
Brad Marshall - May 13, 2009 3:14 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice ArticleGood job ExcitibleBoy. Very interesting and straightforward information. Nice gear list.
ExcitableBoy - May 18, 2009 10:11 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Well doneThank you! This was my first article and all the postive feed back has been wonderful!
TJ311 - May 24, 2009 1:38 pm - Voted 10/10
Rainier is on my listAnd this article will definitely be of use when I start preparing for my trip. Thanks for all the great info.
cbcbd - May 27, 2009 3:49 pm - Voted 10/10
Succint......to the point.
Said it all in few words. Good stuff!
FireOnTheMountain - Jan 25, 2012 2:02 pm - Hasn't voted
WinterThank you very much for the article and the fact that you touched upon winter is awesome! Just a little curious, you got any other tib bits of advice for a winter ascent? I am a fairly competent and experienced mountaineer here in CO and we are looking to do a winter ascent this March. We will be covering the basics like avy danger and crevasse rescue. Thanks a bunch!!