Sorcerer’s Apprentice Right, 5.11-

3rd Pitch- 30m- 5.11- I have led quite a few 5.11 pitches in and around the many Moab towers and consider this pitch the hardest of the group. Pull out of the slot, back out right and up through the bird poop/nest on easy jugs. Climb the thin chossy corner up to the top of the pillar. The idea is to stem as much as possible to avoid the difficult lay-back portion on lead. The corner finger crack is not always open, but does offer for plenty of small gear in the sometimes crunchy sandstone. Few rests exist. I would prefer triples in the small and micro sizes if I led this pitch again. It eases toward the top with a hand crack appearing on the right wall. Although it would seem obvious to continue up yet another pitch from the top of the pillar to the top of the wall, it appears few if anyone has actually done this. A fixed rap station is on top of the pillar. Sorcerer’s Apprentice Right, 5.11-, 3 Pitches, River Road Towers, Moab, September, 2013