Approached from Lake O'Hara along spectaular Grassi Trail. Crotch-high snow covering upper 2/3 of the brutal upper scree slope that ends at the hut. Weather got bad: avalanches coming off Lefroy & Victoria. Route also out of condition: a foot of new snow on the slabs that are the initial 800 feet of the SE Ridge. Unsafe -- so coiled the ropes & ascended the loft in the Abbott Pass Hut. Literally slept on the Continental Divide.
Even so, an incredible & memorable trip & well worth the effort.