So probably the stupidest thing I've even done was free solo that chimney. I'd like to do the climb again with my girlfriend but being much older and wiser I'm taking some gear. Question is, can I get away with my 9mm, 30m rope (especially if we have to turn back) or do I have to lug my 10.5 60m up the mountain? Also, if I stay in the chimneys with the chockstones can I just use slings and nuts or should I be bringing along (read: purchase) some hexes like you guys had?
a 60m rope will allow you to bail if you need to, 30m would be sketchy! a set of nuts is more than enough to protect the climb. if you want to climb it in summer it would be MUCH easier as you could stay in the chimney the whole way and protects it with less gear (chockstones and fixed pitons). during the winter however, the chockstones trap snow which blocks off the chimney forcing one to get into much more technical ground. at least the winter keeps the loose rock at bay!
Finally climbed it. Managing packs (have to haul in the first chimney), rope, belay stations, and a following partner turned out to be the biggest challenge for me as I am still learning these things. The climbing is straightforward, the chimneying very awkward. At one point I ended up facing away from the mountain, a foot on either side of the crack on separate angled surfaces, and my butt hanging in the chimney and I'm still convinced that was the easiest and most logical maneuver! I was fine with a set of BD nuts and some long (20') cordelette to wrap chockstones. Some runout is to be expected though. We did pass one random bolt in the upper gulley (almost useless positioning) and a set of chains just left of the exit of the 2nd chimney which dangle endlessly into space on the huge south face. I have no idea where those go. If the sun is setting it gets dark in there twice is fast, FWIW. Also, in summer bring helmets and be VERY CAREFUL about rockfall. Each chimney floor is slanted, filled with rock, and it all wants to go loose and hit your partner. No incidences there but I did have one very ridiculous looking belay to avoid it.
mvs - Dec 26, 2008 2:47 am - Voted 10/10
good pagethis is neat to see. As far as I know, the Haystack never appeared in a guidebook, but there are interesting climbs. Thanks for putting it up!
flomulgator - Mar 10, 2010 2:40 pm - Hasn't voted
rope?So probably the stupidest thing I've even done was free solo that chimney. I'd like to do the climb again with my girlfriend but being much older and wiser I'm taking some gear. Question is, can I get away with my 9mm, 30m rope (especially if we have to turn back) or do I have to lug my 10.5 60m up the mountain? Also, if I stay in the chimneys with the chockstones can I just use slings and nuts or should I be bringing along (read: purchase) some hexes like you guys had?
Tsuyoshi - Mar 24, 2010 5:02 am - Hasn't voted
Re: rope?a 60m rope will allow you to bail if you need to, 30m would be sketchy! a set of nuts is more than enough to protect the climb. if you want to climb it in summer it would be MUCH easier as you could stay in the chimney the whole way and protects it with less gear (chockstones and fixed pitons). during the winter however, the chockstones trap snow which blocks off the chimney forcing one to get into much more technical ground. at least the winter keeps the loose rock at bay!
flomulgator - Aug 24, 2010 7:18 pm - Hasn't voted
A "problem solver"Finally climbed it. Managing packs (have to haul in the first chimney), rope, belay stations, and a following partner turned out to be the biggest challenge for me as I am still learning these things. The climbing is straightforward, the chimneying very awkward. At one point I ended up facing away from the mountain, a foot on either side of the crack on separate angled surfaces, and my butt hanging in the chimney and I'm still convinced that was the easiest and most logical maneuver! I was fine with a set of BD nuts and some long (20') cordelette to wrap chockstones. Some runout is to be expected though. We did pass one random bolt in the upper gulley (almost useless positioning) and a set of chains just left of the exit of the 2nd chimney which dangle endlessly into space on the huge south face. I have no idea where those go. If the sun is setting it gets dark in there twice is fast, FWIW. Also, in summer bring helmets and be VERY CAREFUL about rockfall. Each chimney floor is slanted, filled with rock, and it all wants to go loose and hit your partner. No incidences there but I did have one very ridiculous looking belay to avoid it.