Myself and Eric Holle were able to pass this notch Mar 6, 2006 on way to Mt. Solitude. At least this year (lots of snow pack) there was a 10-foot-wide bench of snow-loading (not corniced)that we were able to cross. On descent, we used a 35 meter rope from a seated belay for protection (no hardware). On ascent, we free climbed it individually feeling confident in the snow. The snow was knee-deep depth hoar, but had no fear of it collapsing. Great description Kane, definitely the crux... but do-able THIS winter.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."