Myself and Eric Holle were able to pass this notch Mar 6, 2006 on way to Mt. Solitude. At least this year (lots of snow pack) there was a 10-foot-wide bench of snow-loading (not corniced)that we were able to cross. On descent, we used a 35 meter rope from a seated belay for protection (no hardware). On ascent, we free climbed it individually feeling confident in the snow. The snow was knee-deep depth hoar, but had no fear of it collapsing. Great description Kane, definitely the crux... but do-able THIS winter.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe