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keth0601Great Route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2017

keth0601

We took a variation of the SE Couloir Route where we took the right arm of the couloir towards the top. Did a running belay placing pickets (mostly t-slots) on the way up. Snow was in great shape and we got a good early start. Got a lot steeper as we got closer to the the top (maybe 50-55 degrees which was a bit more than we had been expecting).

We then climbed about 1 1/3 pitch (2 full 40m rope lengths) of 5.4ish rock and then an easy traverse and came out right at the top of the Gooseneck Couloir at the pinnacle. Should have had some rock pro, but ended up not needing it as there were plenty of good flakes and horns to throw slings around. Not sure if anyone has done this variation, but with the added rock climbing it was a great alpine climb!

This proved to be an amazing experience all around, and possibly the most beautiful place in the lower 48.

Got a video of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLDnIehgsTw

Unfortunately my battery died about 1/4 up the couloir and I didn't get a good safe spot to switch it out until a good ledge just below the traverse to the pinnacle...
Posted Aug 23, 2017 1:01 pm

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