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Squeeze Play

 
Squeeze Play

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Object Title: Squeeze Play

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: hkutuk

Created/Edited: Nov 2, 2006 / Apr 27, 2007

Object ID: 240691

Hits: 2619 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach

This route is on the Cerberus Wall and right accross the shuttle bus stop at Big Bend. From the stop look up and you'll smile at the splitter, you cannot miss it. Cross the road and take the trail with a climber sign on it up to the wall and turn left until the base of the route. This route is just to the right of Cave Route.

Route Description

 
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Thin hands start.
 
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Continues with nice hands.
 
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Stem the pillar with pro on the right.
Start jamming the splitter crak which starts with thin hands (red camalot) for few moves before becoming nice hands (yellow camalot). Looks like you would go into the corner as the crack looks somewhat broken but it is good so continue jamming. Once at the pillar avoid the wide section, place small gear on the right side and stem against the left wall. Mantle on top of the pillar to the bolt anchors. The route goes into the shade in the afternoon. You can watch people climbing Prodigal Son accros the Virgin River.

Essential Gear

At least two #1, two #2, one #3 BD camalots, small gear from green to red alien and blue and yellow TCUs. Leave the large gear behind as the left side of the pillar is just to wide to protect. Single 60m rope is sufficient to get back to the ground.

Images

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