OverviewStienfell's Dome, also known as Chinaman's Head, is the largest rock formation in the City with an estimated 800 feet of vertical rise. Stienfell's is known for route finding problems on its "strange precambrian granite."
Getting ThereFor decades, locals hiked or made good use of 4x4's to short cut the cross country approach. In 1999, a renewed intrest on Jackson's Thumb, A Theater of Shadows (V.7) helped to promote punching in the new access road to the Dome. Now, simply take the first right hand turn as you are entering from Almo on the east side of the reserve and park at the culdasac. Here, you merely have a 10-15 minute plod to your choice formation.
This is a great place for beginners to feel a bit airy on a big chunk of rock. The view of the Inner City bowl is fantastic, and so is the first move into the second pitch. Too square for an off width, this funky face move over the lip here, offers plenty of exposure to sketch out most gym nerds. Keep an eye out for groveling and predictable frustration for a minutes worth of hesitation before these guys continue on!
Above the lip, the route veers farther out on to the south face for 80 feet or so of easy 45 degree scrambling through a tall and narrow flake-like gully. This opens up again to a slabby slope of crumbling granite, so don't slip on loose rock or look out for your whipper snapper.
The second belay station sits just beneath your last climbing moves on the face. After surmounting a couple more lippy ledge moves, the run out begins up to the third (and optional) belay station. Once you bring your partner up, it is optional, depending upon weather conditions, whether the party will stay on rope for the conclusion of the V.3 summit scramble.