Stuart

Choose life, not Adventuras Patagonicas

As a start, I'd like to make it clear that I am an independent climber with no affiliation directly or indirectly to any expedition or climbing company of any sort – and I am providing this first-hand account of a guide’s action toward his client near the summit of Aconcagua, Argentina, so that anyone thinking of doing the climb can be better informed when making decisions about selecting expedition companies and specifically the guides within them.
Mike Bradley is supposedly a ‘professional’ guide working for Adventuras Patagonicas Mountain Guides. 2 weeks ago, on 31 December 2011, Mike, having had his client base reduced from 6 to 3 due to ill health, set off from the final high camp for the summit of Aconcagua – the highest point in the world outside the Himalayas, with his remaining 3 clients. When they reached the bottom of the Canaleta, approximately 2/3rds of the way to the summit, at about 6,700m (22,000ft), one of the clients was not doing too well and had unsure footing and was generally showing symptoms that should have been seen as warning bells. Mike told this client (I’ll call him Craig to protect his identity) that he was no longer fit enough to continue with his summit bid –and went on to tell him that he should wait right there for them while the remaining 2 clients and Mike finish their summit bid. From that point to the summit and back was a 3 hour return journey. Mike expected his client to wait for 3 hours at 6,700m – having already displayed sufficiently concerning symptoms to call off his summit bid.
I was already on my way down from the summit at this stage, but by the time I got to Craig, he was barely conscious, lying flat on his back under a ledge, hooked up to an oxygen cylinder that some other guide had the time and compassion to set-up for him. With the assistance of 3 porters – we frog marched Craig down with ropes support, and at times, where the path allowed, with Craig draped over our shoulders. By the time he got to a doctor, Craig’s blood-oxygen was 30%. Anything below 60% is considered critical and at 30% permanent brain damage could be done. Fortunately, and as far as I am aware, Craig did make a full recovery.
The questions left unanswered by this event are – why was a client, who had paid around $4,500 for a guide and porter support, literally abandoned at an altitude of 6,700m by his guide having shown signs serious enough to terminate his summit bid? What were the circumstances such that his symptoms were not serious enough to be escorted by his guide back down to safety? Why did 3 porters and myself – all completely unrelated to Craig and his expedition have to carry him down while his guide was on the summit.
To all recreational climbers out there considering mountain guides – please make sure you do thorough research into you selection and make sure your guide lays out a full scenario analysis in the event that things go wrong on the mountain.