You may be on to something here. Bob, Duane, and I intend on writing the GNP superintendent, but I'm sure more input flowing into that office could only help! The three of us will put our heads together, then figure out what might be the best way to involve interested/concerned SP members. Stay tuned....
Thanks for taking the time to post a detailed account of your experience. I was quite engrossed. Looking forward to reading your TR next year when you successfully summit. As the others note, thank for the heads up on the red-tape issue. I would be happy to put pen to paper if such a campaign were initiated.
really brings the atmosphere of Rocky mountain choss to life. The camping situation sounds a bit wearing though - so much for the freedom of the hills!
Thanks for taking the time to read! The red-tape is frustrating; it's just that this area is being managed for hikers, with climbers being an afterthought, and consigned to a "work around it best you can" scenario.
Nice report, brought back a lot of good memories. I've done Cleveland on the Stoney ledge route (and also the west side. We departed from Sue Lake -- we were finishing up the Nervous Traverse/Ipasha Connection. El Grunto Grande. Funny thing is the top of Cleveland reminds you of an aircraft carrier flight deck -- pretty flat.
And good on you for bailing. Bottom line is there is no contractual agreement with those incoming clouds and wet rock means class 2 becomes class 4, class 3 becomes class 5. I've spent about 6 months of my life in GNP, hiking, climbing. Done most of the high peaks, alpine traverses. It's mountaineering paradise -- now if we could just delete those tour helicopters.
I'm envious! I've heard of the "Nervous Traverse," but don't know exactly what it is. It's not working between Ipasha and Merritt, is it?—I've always been told that the Lithoid Cusp and neighboring spires have never been climbed. Yeah, I agree about the tour helicopters....
See the Climbers Guide. "The Nervous" is the crux move of the Ipasha Connection. Ipasha Connection ascends the Iceberg Wall, descends thru Ahern Pass and over Ahern Peak. Then traverses high on the bowl west of Ahern Glacier and drops down into the Ipasha Glacier cirque. The move from that cirque to Chaney Glacier involves the move known as "The Nervous Traverse". Then on to Sue Lake Bench, a most sublime spot.
Great report about an awesome mountain. About the whole access issue, it would be great if the park would recognize climbers differently and allow more climbing permits but I don't see that happening soon. Approaching the mountain from Chief mountain customs and camping at Mokawanis or Glenns lake is almost as easy as Stoney Indian with many more permits to go around and no border crossing issues. Another option is the Cheney Glacier approach from the loop on GTTSR. I also know of at least 6 people that have done Cleveland in a day starting at Chief Mtn customs and running to stoney indian pass, climbing Cleveland and then catching the last boat at Goat Haunt! Definitely not for everyone though!
"Definitely not for everyone..." is right. According to the National Geographic CD-Rom set it's (approximately) 16 miles from Chief Mtn customs to Stoney Indian Pass. Then do the mountain both ways. Then the 8.5 miles to Goat Haunt. All in a day's work, I guess...!
When this report turned up on the front page of SP, it brought back haunting memories! About 2 weeks earlier, I struggled with reaching the summit of Cleveland also. We were hit with horrible weather, and we could not find the right couloir and notch. We attempted a few, but I do not believe they were the right ones. The freezing rain and strong winds on top of our struggle with the correct route caused us to turn around.
I guess that's why there is always a "Next Time". Thanks for such an amazing report!
Saintgrizzly - Dec 27, 2007 12:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Flashback
It's frustrating, to say the least, but one thing: the country's so nice you really don't mind returning! We're going to summit the thing this coming summer (2008), come hell, high water, snow, or NPS restrictions (that's supposed to come off as impressive determination)! Thanks for your comments.... Good luck on your "next time!"
This is a fastinating report and your photos are great. You must read 'The White Death' by McKay Jenkins. It's about a group of 5 climbers that like yourselves didn't reach the summit of Mt. Cleveland either. They tried December 27, 1969 and thier photos were published posthumoulsy. It's one of the most compelling stories I've ever read. Trust me, you won't be able to put it down.
Saintgrizzly - Feb 4, 2008 12:16 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Read This Book
Thanks for your kind comments—seems as though the report took as long to prepare as did the trip! I have indeed read "The White Death," and agree with you completely on how involving it is. Also chock full of information on not only avalanches through history, but how they are formed—much good technical info! I hope to do Mt. Cleveland this summer, but most assuredly not via that mind-boggling north face!
First, this is a great story. I'm particularly amazed by the supporting photography. You guys thought to take pictures at every step of the way!
Last year, a month or two before you had this adventure, my dad and I attempted Cleveland by the same route and retreated at the exact same spot. We had glorious weather. The thing that made us turn back was time and those camping regs you talked about. We couldn't get two nights at Stoney Indian Lake, so our original plan was to do the west face route with the bushwhacking. We camped at Kootenai Lakes and that night, we tried to recon the fabled elk trail in the guide, with little luck. Frustrated, but still determined, we decided that we would do the Stoney Indian route anyway.
The next morning, we got up at four with a lot of gumption and little knowledge of the route. We were on the trail next to Stoney Indian Lake just before dawn and it was beautiful like I'll never forget. For the rest of the route, we made slow progress and reached the Stoney Indian/Cleveland col at turn-around time and decided not to push our luck with exhaustion and darkness.
Instead of going back all that way, we just decided to blaze straight down into the valley beneath the west face. The routefinding was tough and the bushwhacking was legendary. We spent one hour pushing through alders that were 20 feet high and 5 inches in diameter. Once we were through, we about shat ourselves because we stumbled upon the elk trail in the guide. It took us quickly down; every time we lost the trail, the going got a lot slower until we found it again. I knew we were home when I stumbled upon a piece of paper I had hung on a tree the night before during the "recon."
So this year, we're also going back for another shot. This time, we have to go in late June to get around work schedules. Since we know the elk trail exists, we're planning to try the west face this time (with crampons and axes for the snow gullies that will certainly be there).
In summary: 1.) great story. 2.) there are alternatives that solve the camping permit issue (albeit strenuous ones). 3.) Turning back for safety is just as good as summiting: you'll always treasure that disappointment until you get back to settle the score.
-Matt
Saintgrizzly - Mar 10, 2008 2:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Strikingly familiar
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the kind words—that last line of yours contains a great deal of wisdom! We're going back again this summer, as well; hopefully in August. In the past I've had discussions concerning the elk "trail," and it seems that the only thing in its favor is not having to fight for reservations at Stoney Indian Lakes. The elk do a poor job of maintaining the trail, it has reportedly become worse over time, not to mention that the views while bushwhacking through timber are nothing like is encountered while ascending to Stoney Indian Lakes, and then (of course) the traverse.
I'd be leary about trying the mountain in June; my understanding is that first successes each year are almost invariably in July. I'm certainly not privy to huge amounts of information along these lines, but if you're coming all the way from Minnesota with a main objective being Cleveland...I'd definitely speak with a couple of knowledgable backcountry rangers first!
Saintgrizzly - Oct 5, 2007 1:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: great report!You may be on to something here. Bob, Duane, and I intend on writing the GNP superintendent, but I'm sure more input flowing into that office could only help! The three of us will put our heads together, then figure out what might be the best way to involve interested/concerned SP members. Stay tuned....
klwagar - Oct 5, 2007 11:42 pm - Hasn't voted
A good readtoo bad about not making the summit. But you got a terrific trip and tale out of it anyway. Maybe you'll get it next year.
Saintgrizzly - Oct 6, 2007 1:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: A good readThat's what I keep telling myself, that it was a terrific trip--and you bet we'll get it next year! Thanks for taking the time to read.
Enapai - Oct 7, 2007 6:17 pm - Voted 10/10
PhenomenalThanks for taking the time to post a detailed account of your experience. I was quite engrossed. Looking forward to reading your TR next year when you successfully summit. As the others note, thank for the heads up on the red-tape issue. I would be happy to put pen to paper if such a campaign were initiated.
Saintgrizzly - Oct 9, 2007 5:54 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: PhenomenalThanks for the comment—I'm also looking forward to next year's TR, when we make it!
As for the red-tape issue, stay tuned.... We'll let people know, probably via postings....
tphubbard - Oct 8, 2007 7:31 pm - Hasn't voted
excellent reportreally brings the atmosphere of Rocky mountain choss to life. The camping situation sounds a bit wearing though - so much for the freedom of the hills!
Saintgrizzly - Oct 9, 2007 5:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: excellent reportThanks for taking the time to read! The red-tape is frustrating; it's just that this area is being managed for hikers, with climbers being an afterthought, and consigned to a "work around it best you can" scenario.
EricHansen - Oct 8, 2007 8:30 pm - Hasn't voted
yup, been thereNice report, brought back a lot of good memories. I've done Cleveland on the Stoney ledge route (and also the west side. We departed from Sue Lake -- we were finishing up the Nervous Traverse/Ipasha Connection. El Grunto Grande. Funny thing is the top of Cleveland reminds you of an aircraft carrier flight deck -- pretty flat.
And good on you for bailing. Bottom line is there is no contractual agreement with those incoming clouds and wet rock means class 2 becomes class 4, class 3 becomes class 5. I've spent about 6 months of my life in GNP, hiking, climbing. Done most of the high peaks, alpine traverses. It's mountaineering paradise -- now if we could just delete those tour helicopters.
Saintgrizzly - Oct 9, 2007 6:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: yup, been thereI'm envious! I've heard of the "Nervous Traverse," but don't know exactly what it is. It's not working between Ipasha and Merritt, is it?—I've always been told that the Lithoid Cusp and neighboring spires have never been climbed. Yeah, I agree about the tour helicopters....
Thanks for reading....
EricHansen - Oct 18, 2007 10:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: yup, been thereSee the Climbers Guide. "The Nervous" is the crux move of the Ipasha Connection. Ipasha Connection ascends the Iceberg Wall, descends thru Ahern Pass and over Ahern Peak. Then traverses high on the bowl west of Ahern Glacier and drops down into the Ipasha Glacier cirque. The move from that cirque to Chaney Glacier involves the move known as "The Nervous Traverse". Then on to Sue Lake Bench, a most sublime spot.
bfrench - Oct 8, 2007 9:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Great ReportGreat report about an awesome mountain. About the whole access issue, it would be great if the park would recognize climbers differently and allow more climbing permits but I don't see that happening soon. Approaching the mountain from Chief mountain customs and camping at Mokawanis or Glenns lake is almost as easy as Stoney Indian with many more permits to go around and no border crossing issues. Another option is the Cheney Glacier approach from the loop on GTTSR. I also know of at least 6 people that have done Cleveland in a day starting at Chief Mtn customs and running to stoney indian pass, climbing Cleveland and then catching the last boat at Goat Haunt! Definitely not for everyone though!
Saintgrizzly - Oct 9, 2007 6:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great Report"Definitely not for everyone..." is right. According to the National Geographic CD-Rom set it's (approximately) 16 miles from Chief Mtn customs to Stoney Indian Pass. Then do the mountain both ways. Then the 8.5 miles to Goat Haunt. All in a day's work, I guess...!
Thanks for your comments!
Element - Oct 9, 2007 11:13 am - Hasn't voted
Truly AwesomeHoly crap! What an awesome story and unbelievable scenery. Just so much to try and take in. Great job on the report!
Saintgrizzly - Oct 9, 2007 6:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Truly AwesomeIt was quite the job getting the thing together—thanks for reading, and thanks for your comments!
MatPr - Dec 27, 2007 1:40 am - Voted 10/10
FlashbackWhen this report turned up on the front page of SP, it brought back haunting memories! About 2 weeks earlier, I struggled with reaching the summit of Cleveland also. We were hit with horrible weather, and we could not find the right couloir and notch. We attempted a few, but I do not believe they were the right ones. The freezing rain and strong winds on top of our struggle with the correct route caused us to turn around.
I guess that's why there is always a "Next Time". Thanks for such an amazing report!
Saintgrizzly - Dec 27, 2007 12:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: FlashbackIt's frustrating, to say the least, but one thing: the country's so nice you really don't mind returning! We're going to summit the thing this coming summer (2008), come hell, high water, snow, or NPS restrictions (that's supposed to come off as impressive determination)! Thanks for your comments.... Good luck on your "next time!"
marktkt - Jan 31, 2008 7:31 am - Hasn't voted
Read This BookThis is a fastinating report and your photos are great. You must read 'The White Death' by McKay Jenkins. It's about a group of 5 climbers that like yourselves didn't reach the summit of Mt. Cleveland either. They tried December 27, 1969 and thier photos were published posthumoulsy. It's one of the most compelling stories I've ever read. Trust me, you won't be able to put it down.
Saintgrizzly - Feb 4, 2008 12:16 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Read This BookThanks for your kind comments—seems as though the report took as long to prepare as did the trip! I have indeed read "The White Death," and agree with you completely on how involving it is. Also chock full of information on not only avalanches through history, but how they are formed—much good technical info! I hope to do Mt. Cleveland this summer, but most assuredly not via that mind-boggling north face!
Matt Stockinger - Mar 9, 2008 11:48 pm - Voted 8/10
Strikingly familiarFirst, this is a great story. I'm particularly amazed by the supporting photography. You guys thought to take pictures at every step of the way!
Last year, a month or two before you had this adventure, my dad and I attempted Cleveland by the same route and retreated at the exact same spot. We had glorious weather. The thing that made us turn back was time and those camping regs you talked about. We couldn't get two nights at Stoney Indian Lake, so our original plan was to do the west face route with the bushwhacking. We camped at Kootenai Lakes and that night, we tried to recon the fabled elk trail in the guide, with little luck. Frustrated, but still determined, we decided that we would do the Stoney Indian route anyway.
The next morning, we got up at four with a lot of gumption and little knowledge of the route. We were on the trail next to Stoney Indian Lake just before dawn and it was beautiful like I'll never forget. For the rest of the route, we made slow progress and reached the Stoney Indian/Cleveland col at turn-around time and decided not to push our luck with exhaustion and darkness.
Instead of going back all that way, we just decided to blaze straight down into the valley beneath the west face. The routefinding was tough and the bushwhacking was legendary. We spent one hour pushing through alders that were 20 feet high and 5 inches in diameter. Once we were through, we about shat ourselves because we stumbled upon the elk trail in the guide. It took us quickly down; every time we lost the trail, the going got a lot slower until we found it again. I knew we were home when I stumbled upon a piece of paper I had hung on a tree the night before during the "recon."
So this year, we're also going back for another shot. This time, we have to go in late June to get around work schedules. Since we know the elk trail exists, we're planning to try the west face this time (with crampons and axes for the snow gullies that will certainly be there).
In summary: 1.) great story. 2.) there are alternatives that solve the camping permit issue (albeit strenuous ones). 3.) Turning back for safety is just as good as summiting: you'll always treasure that disappointment until you get back to settle the score.
-Matt
Saintgrizzly - Mar 10, 2008 2:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Strikingly familiarHi Matt,
Thanks for the kind words—that last line of yours contains a great deal of wisdom! We're going back again this summer, as well; hopefully in August. In the past I've had discussions concerning the elk "trail," and it seems that the only thing in its favor is not having to fight for reservations at Stoney Indian Lakes. The elk do a poor job of maintaining the trail, it has reportedly become worse over time, not to mention that the views while bushwhacking through timber are nothing like is encountered while ascending to Stoney Indian Lakes, and then (of course) the traverse.
I'd be leary about trying the mountain in June; my understanding is that first successes each year are almost invariably in July. I'm certainly not privy to huge amounts of information along these lines, but if you're coming all the way from Minnesota with a main objective being Cleveland...I'd definitely speak with a couple of knowledgable backcountry rangers first!
Good luck to both of us on this great mountain!