On our way to Bighorn Mating Grotto to climb one of the best 5.10 cracks in the whole park, Woo Li Master (5.10a), we hit up the south face of Surprise Rock. I advise others to do the same. We actually combined Sergeant Rock, Surprise Rock, Disneyland and Big Horn Mating for a full day out of crack climbing. The must do moderate objective on Surprise Rock is a sunny splitter hand crack with an interesting start and finish named Dirty Surprise (5.9). The fact this beautiful looking face only has two routes established on it as of 2013 might be due to what the name of this route suggests. Dirty Surprise was in fact a bit dirty (not climbed often) for such an attractive looking climb not that far in Wonderland. That being said, Dirty Surprise is a worthy trad line. However we passed on the sport climb Trembling Toes (5.9) once we rapped down it and knocked down a few plates. A fixed rap can be had with a 70m rope down Trembling Toes. Dirty Surprise was established way back in 1977 by Herb Laeger.
From the Pink House Ruins, continue west past Foolproof Tower on the left (High Strung, 5.9). The Astrodomes (north and south) are in the distance to the southwest. Lenticular Dome is straight ahead. Keep in the rightward washes heading for Freak Brothers Dome. Surprise Rock is on your right, the last wall on your right prior to the unique Freak Brothers.
Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall
- Dirty Surprise- 5.9* This is a decent route, tall and varied. Not the best rock in Jtree. Surprise Wall does not get much sun first thing in Jan or Feb, but is still south facing. An interesting flared stemming move gets you over a bulge to an easy hand crack. Crux for me was a slab move protected by a micro piece right below the top, some folks (saw chaulk) might break out right, but the move above the crack was pretty cool. A 70m barely makes the rap, but does. Dow
- Trembling Toes- 5.9* Looked like a dirty sport climb to us, not worthy, yet given a star by Miramontes.