applewood - Dec 18, 2016 2:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 1980
SW Couloir and Face
Adventurous day. From camp at Lake Ann it took some time to find a way onto the West Face (low clouds obscured most of it). Began at a steep snow slope below an icefall and the narrow tongue of glacier that extends halfway up the face (at least did in 1980) - with about 1,200' of steep ice/snow, then came the long (1,100') rock face on the left - long run outs with minimal gear, made better by the thick clouds… Then a slog up the Sulphide Glacier and another 800' or so of easy 5th class on the summit pyramid led to a summit with zero visibility. Lots of lady bugs on the summit though, nice walk off down the regular route (although be careful in poor visibility to stay high below the Hourglass and avoid the Upper Curtis icefall). 8 hours round trip to Lake Ann.
applewood - Dec 18, 2016 2:59 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 1980
SW Couloir and FaceAdventurous day. From camp at Lake Ann it took some time to find a way onto the West Face (low clouds obscured most of it). Began at a steep snow slope below an icefall and the narrow tongue of glacier that extends halfway up the face (at least did in 1980) - with about 1,200' of steep ice/snow, then came the long (1,100') rock face on the left - long run outs with minimal gear, made better by the thick clouds… Then a slog up the Sulphide Glacier and another 800' or so of easy 5th class on the summit pyramid led to a summit with zero visibility. Lots of lady bugs on the summit though, nice walk off down the regular route (although be careful in poor visibility to stay high below the Hourglass and avoid the Upper Curtis icefall). 8 hours round trip to Lake Ann.