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Teakettle Mountain Climber's Log

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Matt LemkeSE ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2013

Matt Lemke

The terrible loose approach hike far outweighs the 40 foot pitch of climbing...still a fun outing though
Posted Sep 30, 2013 9:23 pm

rockymountaindivaClass 5?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012


Did not think there was a class 5 move, but rapelling down the rope was fun. Wanted coffeepot but weather stopped us.
Posted Jul 26, 2013 7:01 pm

theREALCarpeDMPiece of crap mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012


Went with Shawn and did this the day before Dallas Peak. Man, I hated this mountain! The summit is cool and all, but just 30 ft of solid climbing does not make up for all the loose crap you have to deal with getting there. Route-finding was not an issue and the famous Black Gully was more of the same loose class 2 that you've dealt with the rest of the way up - except for one optional class 4 move to exit it. Only redeeming feature: it was my first alpine lead (if you can call 30ft of 5.easy an alpine lead). I placed two cams, but didn't really feel the need - just thought I'd practice placing gear, and helped protect the belayer. Used a 30m, 8mm rope. Did Dallas Peak the next day - it was AWESOME! I'd do Dallas 25x before I'd do Teakettle again. Ran into dhatfield, Sally (?!), and Jill.
Posted Aug 6, 2012 2:36 am

Sarah SimonFrom Yankee Boy Basin  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

Sarah Simon

Loved this mountain overall, but...good God, I am sitting here in Ouray at the Brewery drinking beer damn glad I am off all that steep, unstable rock. The scree skiing, the "3rd class grass," the touchy talus. Enjoyed here mountain, but happy to reach terra firma!!! Jill and I helped dhatfield celebrate his final Centennial!!!! Hell yeah!!!
Posted Aug 4, 2012 7:57 pm

seanoStandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012


I started just above the 4WD trailhead, and the first part was nice. Then I got to the choss, and the painful part of the day began. Still, it's a fun, cool summit. Trip report.
Posted Jul 22, 2012 3:48 pm

strudolyubovTeakettle and Coffeepot  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012


Solo climb to the summits of Teakettle Mountain and the "Coffeepot". Nice short summit pitches, slow loose approach/descent.
Posted Jul 16, 2012 12:50 pm

Brian CFun and loose  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2011

Brian C

Fun hike. Took much longer than I expected due to slog up unstable slopes. A very cool summit! Carried some gear up there and a 30M rope and ended up soloing the summit pitch (nice to have to rappel though). Added coffeepot on the way back. Love the San Juans.
Posted Aug 10, 2011 10:52 pm

Liba KopeckovaGreat hike...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2010

Liba Kopeckova

great hike with Michael C., free soloed the last climbing portion (only 5.4 or so), hip belay with 25 meter rope down since it was raining... great day!
Posted Aug 14, 2010 12:53 am

Kieferfirst lead  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009


This was actually better the second time!
A great mountain with a little of everything. Even the approach didn't seem as bad.
Good climb also with Stephanie and Shawn.
Posted Aug 19, 2009 1:40 pm

SarahThompsonOne of my favorite places, 3x including winter ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006


7/1/06 - I had a blast on this unique peak! Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate long enough to go on to Potosi.

9/1/07 - I liked this mountain so much that I had to come back a 2nd time. It was just as fun this time around and the weather held allowing us to climb Coffeepot and Potosi as well.

3/15/11 - The stars aligned perfectly for a safe and successful winter ascent. Climbed the south couloir (which I don't recommend in winter unless conditions are exceptional as the threat of avalanche is high). A memorable day I will never forget, a true gift from the mountain gods. Imagine... an ascent of Teakettle without ever stepping on a piece of scree!?
Posted Mar 3, 2008 1:31 pm

utclimberStandard Route linked with Potosi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007
Gaining the summit ridge is a major grunt. Fun little summit pitch, and the teapot handle is really unique. Recommend linking this with Potosi.
Posted Jan 8, 2008 12:42 pm

gremlinnormal route  Sucess!


linked with coffee pot, potosi. summit bit was fun, too bad it wasn't longer. screwing around with pictures in the handle was a good time too
Posted Oct 26, 2007 1:07 am

shanahan96southeast ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2007


flat-out awesome baby!

climbed teakettle with jamie, kiefer, mike and jamie's friend david from arizona. there was lots of scree and some tedious sections yet the climb was very enjoyable.

the summit pitch(5.3, 40 feet) was my first alpine lead and i thoroughly loved it! hands down, the best climb of the summer. this one will be permanently etched in my memory forever.

Posted Sep 9, 2007 9:27 pm

chicagotransplantStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2007


Climbed with JamieNellis, Shanahan96, Skasgaard and Jamie's friend David. We climbed the standard route, which was a lot of fun! Long loose approach for only 40' of 5.3, but the summit is worth the suffering to get there! We also climbed "Coffeepot" on the way back out.
Posted Sep 4, 2007 11:26 am

KieferSoutheast Standard  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2007


Extremely fun summit climb! A long, ardorous approach, fun set-up and great climb, short rap. Killer views. We had 5 people on top! Great day out with JamieNellis, Shanahan96, Chicago Transplant and David from Phoenix.
Posted Sep 2, 2007 6:35 pm

Brian KaletSoutheast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007

Brian Kalet

En route to "Cofeepot" & Potosi Peak. 8 hours roundtrip from 10,700'.
Posted Aug 13, 2007 11:46 am

boisedocUnique mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 1989


Lots of very loose volcanic rock to wade through. The summit block was so short that we felt comfortable enough to climb it one at a time without ropes with the other person as a spotter.
Posted Dec 17, 2006 4:49 am

RyanSSoutheast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006


I climbed Teakettle's standard route with my wife and a few friends. Very fun peak, and I didn't think the loose rock was all that bad. We thought about traversing over to Potosi, but we were too tired, and the weather didn't hold either. A trip report is available here.
Posted Aug 15, 2006 2:33 pm

shknbkeSoutheast ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006


This is the most spectacular summit I have been on. We followed Roach's instructions from 11300' in YB basin, but for the most part stayed on the s.w. ridge of Coffepot to avoid some of the loose mess. The Black gully isn't too bad and the routefinding to the summit block is straightforward as there is a nice climbers trail. There's just enough room for 3 on the summit!
Posted Jul 5, 2006 6:30 pm

markhyamsStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2004


I recommend this as an early season climb. Snow stablizes much of the loose rock, and the summit block melts out early. One of the few actual climbing summits in the state.
Posted Mar 3, 2006 1:20 am

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