Outstanding climb on a really great mountain!! This route has it all, glacier travel, steep(ish) ice sections, some high altitude rock scrambling and massive exposure.....very fun and demands your attention start to finish.
Also, one note on the approach. A new road was recently built to accommodate a ski resort in the area. You can now drive much higher on the mountain and skip "Camp 1" and head straight up to "Camp 2" on the glacier in one long (7-8 hour) day.
As mentioned on the main page, route finding can be tricky up to the high camp, but a small price to pay for that level of solitude. Once you are on the mountain proper, the route is no problem and is the most logical way upward to the summit.
We were only 3 climbers on this magnificent mountain. Hard rout to the summit, thanks to heavy storm.
Nevertheless, no complains, as we got to the summit..
Many thanks to Idris Khergiani & Alex Trubachev from Alexclimb school, without them it would be impossible..