Tharpu Chuli Additions and Corrections

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fdoctor

fdoctor - Jan 11, 2006 8:12 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Michael

I NEVER put coords into this TOPO thing the US people seem to love.

I recently checked out a couple of readings on two mountain group pages I'd put up in the UK. I entered what I know to be the EXACT lat & long readings and found the map was pointing at an area some 20miles away from the actual peak.

As far as the Nepalese peaks go, I think one of the SP elves did it as I refused to guess. Also, I cant believe that you need coords to find a significant Himal peak like Lobuche etc anyway. They're obsessed with the thing!

Brian

dmiki

dmiki - Jan 11, 2006 3:27 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

According to http://www.tourism.gov.np/peaksopedfortrekking.htm (if it is correct (and due to the state of their website it might not be)), the geo coordinates of the peak might be:



28.5583, 83.8944



thx

Michael

fdoctor

fdoctor - Jan 11, 2006 8:12 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Michael

I NEVER put coords into this TOPO thing the US people seem to love.

I recently checked out a couple of readings on two mountain group pages I'd put up in the UK. I entered what I know to be the EXACT lat & long readings and found the map was pointing at an area some 20miles away from the actual peak.

As far as the Nepalese peaks go, I think one of the SP elves did it as I refused to guess. Also, I cant believe that you need coords to find a significant Himal peak like Lobuche etc anyway. They're obsessed with the thing!

Brian

ttillemans

ttillemans - Dec 1, 2014 6:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Untitled Comment

I climbed the NW ridge with my dad last week so thought I'd add a conditions update.

The descent to the glacier from ABC is a little sketchy. A group of porters did it in sneakers while we were there, and it's fine going slowly, though we used a 60m hand line for my dad, who's 60.

The new route across the glacier goes up the moraine about 2 hrs walk uphill from the decent gulley, or half an hour past the basecamp at 4200m. It's mellow.

There is a good trail starting along the creek from basecamp @ 4200m. The high camp at 5000m is windy. There are cairns to the glacier crossing at 5335m. The glacier crossing was routine.

The flutes are not too steep but were quite icy. It was OK with one tool but two would have been nice. The summit ridge was spectacular climbing on firm snow. Steep but fun.

yaroneshet - Dec 22, 2016 12:40 am - Hasn't voted

Climbing Tharpu Chuli / Tent Peak

I went on the Annapurna base camp trek including Tharpu Chuli peak climbing with a local Nepali company. The local team included a guide, cook and a porter.

The Nepali climbing practices didn't meet the bar for safety, so you should definitely know what you are doing. Do your homework carefully!

I advise everyone to do extra preparation about the technical climbing part, including the technical equipment needed and the day-by-day technical challenges involved.

The trip involves some steep sections both on the way up and down - so make sure you are familiar with safe climbing/rappelling practices on both rock and ice. Use of helmet, harness and ropes is critical starting from the Annapurna base camp. Also pay attention to backup mechanisms such as using a friction knot for rappelling and a second ascender for going up a fixed line.

The technical part includes:
1. going down/up the glacier valley steep landslide
2. climbing/rappelling the steep rock ledges on the other side
3. climbing/rappelling the ice/snow slopes of Tharpu Chuli

Please note this is not a highly popular route, so the route maintenance is not ideal. Please pay extra attention and double check the existing anchors along the route.

In addition, the Nepali guide wanted me to go up the icy slopes along a fixed line with an ascender only rather than use an ice axe. This is not climbing in its pure sense, so if you wish to climb with an ice axe - make sure the guide is prepared for that when you book the trip.

As the temperature at Tharpu Chuli base camp and high camp are very low and the winds are strong, I advise to bring an extra isolating mattress.

Extra caution should be taken regarding food hygiene as Nepali standards are not western standards.

Overall this is a great experience with amazing views. Highly recommended but please do your homework first.

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