The Black Orpheus Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2014
|Nice long adventure. With Megan Parish. ~9hrs C2C, ~5hrs base to summit. Led 1/2, 4th class, 5.10 pitch, final slab pitch. Next time I'd prefer to unrope for pitches 4-7 to save some time.|
|Posted Feb 12, 2014 5:43 pm|
|jacobsmith||Intense Climb |
Date Climbed: Dec 29, 2012
|Second climb at Red Rock, felt it was intense, but mis-rated. The crux for us was on the second pitch, it seems possible that a hold or two has broken off because both myself and Ryan, who led it, thought it was harder than the supposed 10a crux (which was nothing much, two finger jams, some desperate smearing, and a dyno up to the ledge). We soloed through the middle section so i don't really know how to refer to the upper pitches; i led the the third one, 5.6, and found it to be much harder than the 5.8 and 5.7 pitches i led below.|
the real epic began once we returned to the wash, where i managed to lose an altimeter, a climbing shoe, and my glasses in the ridiculous brush (well worse than any bushwhack in Washington), although i found the climbing shoe after extensive searching by headlamp. If any of those items are found, as well as the black glove Ryan dropped on route, i would be very appreciative to have them back.
Overall a good route, but the ratings need to be updated, i would say 5.8, 10a, 5.7, 4th and low 5th depending on variation, 5.9, 5.9, 5.8, 5.6
|Posted Dec 30, 2012 12:06 am|
|I climbed this route in February or March of 2006. My shoelace blew out during the first few pitches, and the rest of the climb I had no jamming/edging abilities with one foot, which made it interesting.|
|Posted May 10, 2010 11:41 pm|
Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2010
|Climbed with Oliver. We got a fairly early start and didn´t see anyone on Solar Slab as we went past so I was surprised to hear voices above as we neared the Black Arch. There was even another party of 3 above the first party of 2. I think it was nine when we actually started climbing and the canyon was feeling good with sun already warming up the top pitches. We simuled pitches 4-7 and 10-11 and topped out at quarter past 2. We were fortunate to pass the party of 3 just before the bottom of pitch 8 which is basically the last opportunity since 8-10 don´t offer many options. We mated ropes with the party above us for the quick descent and got to town in time to watch the Bengals make an early exit from the playoffs.|
I put the crux move on pitch 8 at 10a, but at 5.6 #10 is a wake-up pitch and the pumpiest section of the day.
|Posted Jan 12, 2010 2:14 am|
|Posted Apr 30, 2009 9:58 pm|
|fossana||black orpheus |
Date Climbed: Apr 18, 2009
|Climbed with Jascha on a sunny spring Saturday with the winds keeping temperatures in check. Only one other party on the route; everyone else was headed for Levitation 29. The crux is like Panty Raid (Calico Hills), only much much shorter and with bolts. The 5.8 cracks are mostly surrounded by featured faces. IMHO, the 5.6 lieback sections above felt more committing. Not a ton of good nut placements, and I got by with one set of cams (forgot to bring a second set of smaller ones as recommended). Fun route with great views of Oak Creek Canyon.|
|Posted Apr 19, 2009 11:28 am|
|It is a classic, but don't climb on a hot day.|
|Posted Dec 7, 2008 1:16 pm|
|brutus of wyde||Hella climb! |
Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2008
|GREAT Route. Nurse Ratchet and I have been eying this one for years. |
Hanging belay on the Crux Bolts, Dow??? No wonder you thought it was easier than 10a!
We thought the crux was full-on 10a (No hanging belay, and we don't have long reach.)
Even with a very early start, we didn't reach the "IBM" boulder until twilight. Had to break out a rope again as we wound our way down the second and third class slab descent, in the dark.
Of course, right now the Loop Road closes at 5pm and headlamps are needed at 5:30 pm, so I guess between being geriatric tortoises and short days, the fact that we didn't bivy can be considered a huge win! (grin). Glad we got that Late Exit permit.
Went up yesterday into Lower Painted Bowl to retrieve our stuck rope, so got a lot of good pics of the upper part of the 2-rope Painted Bowl descent. Hope to put up descent info for this before the end of the year.
Thanks to Radek, Chief and Dow for the inspiring words!
Brutus, heading to the meds cabinet for some "Vitamin I"
|Posted Nov 8, 2008 1:00 am|
|tb00957||black orpheus |
Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2008
|Posted May 13, 2008 3:04 pm|