desainme - Jul 26, 2003 7:59 am - Voted 10/10
Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Did'nt see the bolts but is there a faint chalk line around them?
cluck - Jul 28, 2003 10:23 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Yeah, the SP scripts shrunk the picture so you can't see the actual bolts anymore. But, you can get a feel for what the pitch will be like.
The bolt ladder ascends to the climber's left side of the mouth. There are bolts in the mouth for the belay. The next pitch exits the other side of the mouth (climber's right) and up to the nose. The move to exit the mouth is called "Panic Point" because it's quite exposed. Fortunately, there's a bolt right there for protection.
I should note that I haven't climbed this route yet, this is just info I've gathered by scouting the route from the Springboard.
Brian Jenkins - Jul 28, 2003 10:57 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Here's a photo I took from Bohn Street that shows the bolt ladder pretty well.
rpc - Jul 28, 2003 12:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?check out one of the links I have on MF links page, in particular:
http://www.mountainwerks.org/mwp/climbing/smithrock.htm
shows the route with climbers on it. (other links are pretty good as well).
cluck - Jul 29, 2003 10:32 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Hey, hows the rap off? I know everyone says that two 60-meter ropes will get you from the nose to the ground in one rap, but I don't own two 60-meter ropes (nor do I want to haul a second rope the whole way up).
Is it possible to rap off with 1 50-meter rope in multiple rappels? Maybe rap nose - mouth, mouth - saddle, saddle - ground?
Brian Jenkins - Jul 29, 2003 2:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?I don't think so. Right after I took this picture the wind picked up and it started snowing and I got sketched so I rapped off from the bolts on Bohn Street. 60 meter rope was fine to get all the way down from there. Typically, you rap from the top to the nose and then down from there in one long rap. You can't rap from the mouth as I understand it. Can't remember why but two of our party went on and finished the route that day and had explained to me why that wasn't possible although I can't remember it now. I believe the line from the Nose doesn't take you back to the saddle, it takes you straight down to the ground too. I'll try to find out more info for you though. Having dinner tonight with people who have done it lots before...............
Check with rpc also, I know he has completed it.
rpc - Jul 29, 2003 4:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?I think Brian is right. We rapped off with 2X60m ropes from nose to ground. The only intermediate station below the nose boulder (reachable with 1 50m rope) that I can think of would be in the mouth cave. It might be difficult to re-enter the mouth cave from the rappel. If I remember correctly, by the time you're level with the cave on the way down you're also quite a distance away from it free-hanging (horizontal direction). Would require some "swinging" I think. From the mouth cave, I'd imagine you'd rap back down to Bohn Street ledge (not directly down as I suspect that too is too long for a single 50m), traverse back in direction of notch you came up thru. and rap off of one of many anchors on Bohn street. But again, not sure if a single 50m would work for this final rap either (probably). If you don't have 2 60 m ropes, think you could do it with 2 50m ones (think there's an intermediate rap station somewhere on the main wall below the Spring Board - might even be in Watts' book topo).
.....you don't have to drag the 2nd rope, just make your 2nd carry it up for you :) .
good place to get a 2nd opinion is here (if you're willing to put up with some smart a..es):
http://smithrock.com/bbs/index.sht
good luck and let us know if it IS possible.
cluck - Jul 30, 2003 1:19 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Thanks for the prompt response, guys. I posted on the SmithRock.com board and someone replied saying it IS possible with 2 50-meter ropes. I'll give it a shot and post again to let you all know how it goes.
Brian Jenkins - Jul 30, 2003 2:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Which side of the mouth do you leave from?Talked with two of the most experienced climbers I know last night (one just returned from climbing Lotus Flower Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables and both have done Monkey Face like 5-10 times each). They both confirm it IS possible with 50 m ropes. You rap from the Nose but don't go all the way down to flat ground, a rap strraight down will land you near another set of rap anchors and a short rap from there you are on flat ground. Or, if you want to go to near the end of the ropes and downclimb a bit in a short gully, it'll get you to the same place.
Good luck.
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