Route Climbed: Southeast Chimneys from Pinnacle Saddle Date Climbed: October 12, 2002
We climbed this as part of a traverse including Pinnacle and Plummer peaks. The chimneys provide nearly unlimited route options for gaining the summit on good, solid rock.
It is easier to traverse completely around the backside of the mountain to get to the Southeast side rather than try to climb straight up the rotten rock composing the Southern headwall. On an earlier trip, we climbed straight up from the Pinnacle/Castle saddle. We were met by unprotectable climbing on rotten rock. When we finally reached the top, we found we were on the shorter South ridge and ended up walking off and over to the base of the North ridge to begin the real climb to the summit.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe