Started from Garnet Lake and approached on snow to the saddle between the arete and the peaklet.
Maybe we were a little unnerved by the rock (being used to granite), but we belayed 9-10 pitches on this thing. I'm pretty sure we were on route, saw some old (and not so old) pitons and slings, plus an old rusty tin can on a big ledge not far from the summit.
Descent via Ritter/Banner saddle was illuminated by the full moon. Traversed steep snow back to the other saddle, and then back to Garnet Lake. Felt more like a IV to us.
A fine route, loved it for the most part... tremendous views, thrilling exposure, wild approach, but more loose blocks than we anticipated made climbing a little unnerving and necessarily delicate. The entire approach from Ediza, including steep approach gully, was still covered in snow, adding to the alpine vibe. We climbed in three roped pitches thru the exposed traverse and steep bits (solo lower arete), and one really long simul pitch to the summit. Rock was a little more solid towards the top, but quite wet with snow melt. Glad to have soft snow on descent from RBS.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe