Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Upper Progressive, 5.10a***
Definitely a step up or two from Lower. MP.com posters complain of rat shit and urine, but that is common on most routes at the Voo. Move left from the top of Lower Progressive and climb the right facing corner. A bit of fun stemming with good gear. Eventually finishes on steep hands to a boulder to sling for a belay. Rap off a fixed rap climbers right 50’. Single to #4. 60’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Elevator, 5.10a**
Short but good. Local guide mentions fists, but it is mostly large or cupped hands. No more difficult than Lower Progressive I thought. A bit overhanging left facing corner. Gear belay. Scramble down climbers right back to the base. Single from #1 to #4. Doubles #2-#3. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Lower Progressive, 5.9**
Fun but short spitter on the lower wall. Starts off with a stem move than a perfect hand and foot jam up a slightly overhanging left facing corner/splitter. Fixed rap above. Single to #4. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Hemoglobin, 5.8*
Not given much love in the guide book, no stars, but actually a great little 5.8 hand crack. The crux is at the bottom, a bit awkward getting started. Build a medium gear belay on top and rap climbers left off of rap rings to the ground with a single 70m. 30’. Whatever gear you brought with you on Flying Buttress will be more than adequate. This is just an extension of that ultra classic.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Flying Buttress, 5.10b****
Great route, considered a classic by the locals. Again, like many routes in the Voo, it is best done as a single pitch vs two as stated in the local guide. Climb the easy OW up the short bottom wall to access the flared sort of chimney that leads to the prominent roof. Most leading this grade at the Voo would prefer to solo the lower wall, maybe 5.8 at most, to avoid any rope drag. Once in the main corner, face out to start but make sure to turn around early or your feet will be lost and the transition awkward. Once facing the left wall, you will find some small edges to assist with the fists and hands. Eases up near the end to a fixed rap. From here it is easy to climb Hemoglobin directly above, a stellar, but short, 5.8 hand crack. Then rap climbers left off of rap rings to the ground with a 70m. Medium gear belay atop Hemoglobin. 80’. Single to #4. Doubles from #.75 to #2. No need for a big bro as the local guide suggests. If you belay where the fixed rap is, you can manage to keep the rope out of any cams at the lip.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Hair Lip, 5.9+****
Like almost all 5.9+’s, it will feel more 5.10b than 5.10a. My 2nd time leading this route, but this time I did the “crawl traverse", left leg up on the ledge and hand jamming the crux horizontal at the top. You can swing your leg down fairly immediate, so it is not too much of a crawl. Glad I did it again to see this original version, which is much tougher than the straight up micro gear corner above. Great route, cruxy start with an amazing reachy finger lock to twin cracks that lead to a fixed rap. Skip the rap and continue out the horizontal out right which is well protected hand pieces but awkward. This is not a two-pitch route despite the local guide an mp.com calling it so. Would be foolish to break it up, just extend your pieces where necessary. 100’. Double to #3, single #4. Rp’s if you are doing the easier version up the dihedral vs the crawl out right. Belay on medium gear. Make a short rap off of rap rings on the east side. Walk back to the top of the easy routes on the slab to the right of Hair Lip. Dow
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Finally, 5.9**
Finally, as with many 5.9 wide ones at the Voo, is sandbagged compared to most OW’s. If you climb it with off width technique it is a Voo 5.10, but it can be lay backed through many of the wide cruxes making it 5.9 in the end. The start of the main wide crack is the crux. Where it bends right, you can sneak a #6 under and feet start to show up on the face. Near the end is a #1 placement and good hands to finish on. You can place every piece of a single rack from #.5 to #6 counting a couple of medium pieces for a gear belay in a floor crack atop the route. You can also choose to belay off of the rap anchor on the east side of the formation that takes you back to the walk around ledge. 75’. Approach by scrambling to an alcove, belay there, a few meters of easy climbing get you to the start of the wide crack above.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Outrider, 5.10a**
As sport climbs go at the Voo, this is actually a pretty good one. Intricate crystal slab climbing just to the left of a #6 crack. Follow three bolts as they trend left sustained at the grade until it crosses a gear horizonal (any medium gear fits). Surmount it and pass another bolt on low angled ground to a cold shut rap. One medium piece of gear and 4 draws. 65’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Joke, 5.6**
Secure solo hand crack just the left of Jim Jam. Can rap the same anchor.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Jim Jam, 5.9**
If it were longer, it would be one of the best moderate hand cracks at the Voo. Scramble up logs and rocks in a narrow gully to the base of two splitters. The one of the right is Jim Jam. Start with jams that get a bit less secure as you get higher, but jamming is always there in some form. Nice vertical crack climbing to fixed anchor rap with quick links. Single to #4. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Deception, 5.8**
A cool intermittent crack system that climbs just right of an arete that opposes Friday the 13th . Tame for a Voo 5.9 as a local guide has it. 5.8 on Mp.com which I agree with. The newest local guide has it marked incorrectly. It goes to its own independent anchor far left of the upper block corner. It is just one pitch. Thunderbolt is the route that takes the block corner above to the top. Place an assortment of gear in intermittent cracks through mostly face climbing to a fixed rap with cold shuts. Single to #2 including a few offsets or wires. 75’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Left Torpedo Tube, 5.10+***
This is a highly regarded route in both the guide book and on MP.com. I have climbed better off-widths at the grade at the Voo, but it is for sure worth doing. MP.com has it at 5.10+ which I tend to agree with. The awkward exit out the bottom to make the transition from bottom wide to top wide is the crux. You can burrow a #5 or #6 deep underneath and climb down a meter or two to start traversing out left. Feet are not plentiful. Surmount this bulge via knee jams and then inch up the wide above. A #6 can probably be placed somewhere up high, although I spent mine lower down, but a small off set cam will go in a flake about half way up the long upper runout. I faced mostly right on this upper portion. Can jam your body for rests but the moves are still physical the whole way. Fixed anchor with cold shuts as of 2023. Double #5 to #6. A #.3/.4 off set fits in a flake during the long run out above. If you have a #7-#9 with you, you can use it on the upper part if you are not comfortable with the R. 100’.
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Cornelius- 40’-5.5***
Definitely the more aesthetic of the two (Easy Jam). Heavily featured finger seam, left to right on the right side of the corner. Straightens out at the end to a fixed rap. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Easy Jam- 40’-5.4*
I soloed up Cornelius and down climbed Easy Jam for two quick ones. Both way easy by Vedauwoo standards. Easy Jam is more hands/wider, and in the right facing corner just right of Hair Lip. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Hair Lip- 80’-5.9+***
Guide has it as two pitches, but easily done as one. Usually old 5.9+ routes are more challenging than most 5.10-‘s and Hair Lip is no exception. Great route. Cruxy start/pro off the deck. Stemming and ring locks/fingers get you past it. Then into the double crack proper, steep and wide up to a fixed anchor. Up another crack to the right and traverse via a horizontal to the right that turns into a full body crawl if you want. Then solid hands until an obvious awkward mantle. Up a closed red corner with a small wire or micro cam via a power leg move. Belay on top with medium to large gear. Rap down the back side for a short rap and then rap Easy Jam or Cornelius. Single rack to C4#4, double from C4#.5 to #2. Wires and/or micro cams. Dow
SarahThompson - Feb 6, 2016 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
Great Summit!
Climbed via Mother (classic Voo 5.7+ offwidth testpiece) to Parabolic Slab. I have a feeling this wasn't my last visit. Love Vedauwoo.
McCannster - Feb 3, 2016 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2010
Variety of routes
Date approx. Climbed routes all over this rock, and then summited at the end of the day via the Parabolic Slab. Fun rap off the top if I recall.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:38 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Upper Progressive, 5.10a***Definitely a step up or two from Lower. MP.com posters complain of rat shit and urine, but that is common on most routes at the Voo. Move left from the top of Lower Progressive and climb the right facing corner. A bit of fun stemming with good gear. Eventually finishes on steep hands to a boulder to sling for a belay. Rap off a fixed rap climbers right 50’. Single to #4. 60’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Elevator, 5.10a**Short but good. Local guide mentions fists, but it is mostly large or cupped hands. No more difficult than Lower Progressive I thought. A bit overhanging left facing corner. Gear belay. Scramble down climbers right back to the base. Single from #1 to #4. Doubles #2-#3. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Lower Progressive, 5.9**Fun but short spitter on the lower wall. Starts off with a stem move than a perfect hand and foot jam up a slightly overhanging left facing corner/splitter. Fixed rap above. Single to #4. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Hemoglobin, 5.8*Not given much love in the guide book, no stars, but actually a great little 5.8 hand crack. The crux is at the bottom, a bit awkward getting started. Build a medium gear belay on top and rap climbers left off of rap rings to the ground with a single 70m. 30’. Whatever gear you brought with you on Flying Buttress will be more than adequate. This is just an extension of that ultra classic.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Flying Buttress, 5.10b****Great route, considered a classic by the locals. Again, like many routes in the Voo, it is best done as a single pitch vs two as stated in the local guide. Climb the easy OW up the short bottom wall to access the flared sort of chimney that leads to the prominent roof. Most leading this grade at the Voo would prefer to solo the lower wall, maybe 5.8 at most, to avoid any rope drag. Once in the main corner, face out to start but make sure to turn around early or your feet will be lost and the transition awkward. Once facing the left wall, you will find some small edges to assist with the fists and hands. Eases up near the end to a fixed rap. From here it is easy to climb Hemoglobin directly above, a stellar, but short, 5.8 hand crack. Then rap climbers left off of rap rings to the ground with a 70m. Medium gear belay atop Hemoglobin. 80’. Single to #4. Doubles from #.75 to #2. No need for a big bro as the local guide suggests. If you belay where the fixed rap is, you can manage to keep the rope out of any cams at the lip.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2023
Hair Lip, 5.9+****Like almost all 5.9+’s, it will feel more 5.10b than 5.10a. My 2nd time leading this route, but this time I did the “crawl traverse", left leg up on the ledge and hand jamming the crux horizontal at the top. You can swing your leg down fairly immediate, so it is not too much of a crawl. Glad I did it again to see this original version, which is much tougher than the straight up micro gear corner above. Great route, cruxy start with an amazing reachy finger lock to twin cracks that lead to a fixed rap. Skip the rap and continue out the horizontal out right which is well protected hand pieces but awkward. This is not a two-pitch route despite the local guide an mp.com calling it so. Would be foolish to break it up, just extend your pieces where necessary. 100’. Double to #3, single #4. Rp’s if you are doing the easier version up the dihedral vs the crawl out right. Belay on medium gear. Make a short rap off of rap rings on the east side. Walk back to the top of the easy routes on the slab to the right of Hair Lip. Dow
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Finally, 5.9**Finally, as with many 5.9 wide ones at the Voo, is sandbagged compared to most OW’s. If you climb it with off width technique it is a Voo 5.10, but it can be lay backed through many of the wide cruxes making it 5.9 in the end. The start of the main wide crack is the crux. Where it bends right, you can sneak a #6 under and feet start to show up on the face. Near the end is a #1 placement and good hands to finish on. You can place every piece of a single rack from #.5 to #6 counting a couple of medium pieces for a gear belay in a floor crack atop the route. You can also choose to belay off of the rap anchor on the east side of the formation that takes you back to the walk around ledge. 75’. Approach by scrambling to an alcove, belay there, a few meters of easy climbing get you to the start of the wide crack above.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Outrider, 5.10a**As sport climbs go at the Voo, this is actually a pretty good one. Intricate crystal slab climbing just to the left of a #6 crack. Follow three bolts as they trend left sustained at the grade until it crosses a gear horizonal (any medium gear fits). Surmount it and pass another bolt on low angled ground to a cold shut rap. One medium piece of gear and 4 draws. 65’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Joke, 5.6**Secure solo hand crack just the left of Jim Jam. Can rap the same anchor.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:08 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Jim Jam, 5.9**If it were longer, it would be one of the best moderate hand cracks at the Voo. Scramble up logs and rocks in a narrow gully to the base of two splitters. The one of the right is Jim Jam. Start with jams that get a bit less secure as you get higher, but jamming is always there in some form. Nice vertical crack climbing to fixed anchor rap with quick links. Single to #4. 40’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:06 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Deception, 5.8**A cool intermittent crack system that climbs just right of an arete that opposes Friday the 13th . Tame for a Voo 5.9 as a local guide has it. 5.8 on Mp.com which I agree with. The newest local guide has it marked incorrectly. It goes to its own independent anchor far left of the upper block corner. It is just one pitch. Thunderbolt is the route that takes the block corner above to the top. Place an assortment of gear in intermittent cracks through mostly face climbing to a fixed rap with cold shuts. Single to #2 including a few offsets or wires. 75’.
Dow Williams - Jun 21, 2023 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2023
Left Torpedo Tube, 5.10+***This is a highly regarded route in both the guide book and on MP.com. I have climbed better off-widths at the grade at the Voo, but it is for sure worth doing. MP.com has it at 5.10+ which I tend to agree with. The awkward exit out the bottom to make the transition from bottom wide to top wide is the crux. You can burrow a #5 or #6 deep underneath and climb down a meter or two to start traversing out left. Feet are not plentiful. Surmount this bulge via knee jams and then inch up the wide above. A #6 can probably be placed somewhere up high, although I spent mine lower down, but a small off set cam will go in a flake about half way up the long upper runout. I faced mostly right on this upper portion. Can jam your body for rests but the moves are still physical the whole way. Fixed anchor with cold shuts as of 2023. Double #5 to #6. A #.3/.4 off set fits in a flake during the long run out above. If you have a #7-#9 with you, you can use it on the upper part if you are not comfortable with the R. 100’.
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Cornelius- 40’-5.5***Definitely the more aesthetic of the two (Easy Jam). Heavily featured finger seam, left to right on the right side of the corner. Straightens out at the end to a fixed rap. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:04 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Easy Jam- 40’-5.4*I soloed up Cornelius and down climbed Easy Jam for two quick ones. Both way easy by Vedauwoo standards. Easy Jam is more hands/wider, and in the right facing corner just right of Hair Lip. Dow
Dow Williams - Sep 18, 2018 2:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2018
Hair Lip- 80’-5.9+***Guide has it as two pitches, but easily done as one. Usually old 5.9+ routes are more challenging than most 5.10-‘s and Hair Lip is no exception. Great route. Cruxy start/pro off the deck. Stemming and ring locks/fingers get you past it. Then into the double crack proper, steep and wide up to a fixed anchor. Up another crack to the right and traverse via a horizontal to the right that turns into a full body crawl if you want. Then solid hands until an obvious awkward mantle. Up a closed red corner with a small wire or micro cam via a power leg move. Belay on top with medium to large gear. Rap down the back side for a short rap and then rap Easy Jam or Cornelius. Single rack to C4#4, double from C4#.5 to #2. Wires and/or micro cams. Dow
SarahThompson - Feb 6, 2016 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2014
Great Summit!Climbed via Mother (classic Voo 5.7+ offwidth testpiece) to Parabolic Slab. I have a feeling this wasn't my last visit. Love Vedauwoo.
McCannster - Feb 3, 2016 1:36 pm Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2010
Variety of routesDate approx. Climbed routes all over this rock, and then summited at the end of the day via the Parabolic Slab. Fun rap off the top if I recall.