The Pitch That Turned The Day

About 1.5 rope lengths from the headwall, we came upon this major challenge that would prove to be our undoing. 9/24/2011 Lesson 1: stay on the sunny side of the arete. Anything in the shade is guaranteed to accrue snow and ice, especially in September. Lesson 2: follow your gut. I felt I should go straight up and over a lip but was convinced to go right, into the shady sections setting me up for this gnarly mixed pitch that I tackled in rock shoes, an ice tool, and terribly sparse pro. Lesson 3: secure your boots to your harness with a locking carabiner — they'll find a way to get loose.